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Hi, I need some help I recently have an issue an engine check light pop up on my 98 Honda Accord Ex so I went to Autozone and recieved this code p1457. The guy told me there are several things I need to check so before I start from the beginning has anyone had this problem if so what you guys did to solve it and if any of you could post up pics or videos that would be really helpful for me to learn. Thanks
Niz
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That is an EVAP leak correct?
A lot of the time EVAP leaks are caused by a bad gas cap. Sometimes that is the only thing you need to replace the fix the problem. I would try that first, replace it and clear the code and wait to see if it comes back on. Otherwise you would probably need a smoke machine to test the system.
I know a few Honda’s have issues with bad EVAP bypass Valves and two-way valves in the EVAP system on newer models. There is a TSB out for for 2000 and up models. Im not sure if that TSB will work for you.
Having access to service information here would be great.
All EVAP codes i have worked on, i used the smoke machine as mentioned above as well has having a bi-directional scan tool to activate the purge control and vent valves too.
I would do a good visual inspection of the vacuum hoses by the EVAP canister and see if you can see any evidence or cracks or tears in the lines and damage to the EVAP box itself.
Thanks for the replies I did some research and I came across this link do you think it’s legit information. check it out http://wiki.answers.com /Q/ Engine_check_P1457_Honda_ accord Just remove spaces between this link because this forum won’t let me paste a link between I did more research and they said it’s vent shut valve so should I try replacing gas cap?
I wouldn’t just throw parts at a vehicle to fix it. I would diagnose it. If you cant or don’t want to troubleshoot it, then its upto you on guessing if a part will or will not fix it.
Good luck.
Quick question if replace the gas cap how can I reset the code because taking out the battery cables just going to reset my radio and Honda has big problem such as put down a code after taking wires. I know there is a fuse on the passenger side but any of you know wht number ex: 30, 15 …… thanks for helping me out with suggestions
That is a leak detected on the canister side. Truely the best way to nail this one down is to activate the solinoids that control the venting of the canister while checking with smoke for leaks. Sometimes you can try and activate the solinoids directly and if they don’t respond at all then it probably means that solinoid is bad but most times you need to verify leaks with smoke.
A smoke machine would be nice, but they generally go for $500, and that’s for an inexpensive one.
Here
A BIG thanks to Eric and John.John, I really appreciate about your post because your fully descriptional post made it very easy to understand for anyone out there who’s looking to fix their own car by themselves. Again Thanks to everyone & I’ll get back to you guys with an update
Eric, what if all the solenoids and valves were replaced, along with the canister, as well as the gas cap? I took it to 3 mechanics (1 Honda Dealership (the guys are total scam artists) and 2 private) and none of them truly seemed to know how to diagnose where the problem was coming from. Do you think it could possibly be a small tube with a crack in it, or a seal somewhere?? I’ve been at it with this P1457 code for over a year now and I just want to fix it already. I’m ready to take this into my own hands as these mechanics don’t seem to know how to truly find the root of this problem. Please help! Btw this is a 2002 Honda Accord 4cyl 2.3L EX model.
I have not figured it out yet because I have not been able to revisit this issue. However, when I was rebuilding the suspension in the fall, I did notice the joint drain bypass tube, which is located behind the rear driver side door and under the wheel well was disconnected. It seems to be oddly going up into the framing of the car but I could not see if it was supposed to be connected to anything else. It’s #32 in the diagrams in attaching. I will also be reaching out to an expert from AutoZone that helped me with a bearing issue this past summer. Let me know what you guys think and hopefully Eric can chime in as well as to whether there’s a tube that runs through the rest framing of the car thats supposed to be connected to the other end of that bypass tube.
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