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Hey guys,
So, I bought myself an OBD2 Bluetooth reader to check for issues with my car as it’s been running poorly for some time. Unfortunately it doesn’t appear to be working (possibly non OBD2 port).
However, I came across a website which shows how to read codes but bridging 2x pins together which then causes the Check Enging light to blink the codes (also seen in Erics video)Bridging the pins with a paperclip, I was greeted with a some codes (turns out to be 5 fault codes 🙁 )
According to
The relate to,
P1312 – Ignition Coil.2
P1313 – Ignition Coil.2 Abnormal
P1315 – Ignition Coil.2 High Output
P1321 – Ignition Coil.4 Abnormal
P1322 – Ignition Coil.4 low Output__&/or__Glow Indicator Lamp OPEN
Not too sure what these relate to exactly, especially the Glow indicator Lamp, but can anyone tell me if these are bad ??
Also, could anything like this cause a No Crank/No Start issue?
Re: No Crank/No Start –
Sometimes the car will start first turn, no problem.
Sometimes I try to start the car and just get a *click*. Have to keep trying, it can take a couple of tried, or it can take twenty. :SAnywho, any help would be super appreciated 🙂
Regards,
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Replies
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Based on your codes and description it sounds like an ignition problem. The fact that you weren’t able to pull the codes from your vehicle is suspect however. You might want to start by taking it to a local auto parts store to see if they can pull the codes for you. It’s important to figure out what the actual codes are, otherwise you’re just guessing as to what they are. Perhaps there was a problem with the code reader. I think we need to rule that out first.
As for no start issues, I wrote this article that may get you started on that diagnosis.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Hey Eric, thanks for the reply 🙂
Looks like I have OBD1 port, not OBD2 :. I might look around and see what local mechanics charge for code retrieval.
in the meantime, I was wondering if you have a video/guide for testing ignition coils/leads ?
Regards,
if you are sure of the year it has to be obd2 compliant so yes i would do like eric said and go to the local part store because every car after 1996 sold in the us has to be obd2 i would chek the fuse and c if it mioght be the problem y the scan tool is not working also sometimes it will blow and not let the tool power on.
Hey Hamby, thanks for the post 🙂
I’ll contact Hyundai and see what they say, but from reading other forums, others are having the same issue with OBD reader(s) too. The car was manufactured post 1996, but, it’s an Australian version, so maybe it might be different? I’ll ask around and see what others say.
The unit itself powers up, detects via bluetooth, but just won’t connect to the available protocols.Checked through the fuses, everything seems good.
Thanks again 🙂
Your clicking with no start sounds like the starter is failing (solenoid)
As for all your engine code. I would look for basic ignition inspection (plug, wire, oil leak by spark plug) might turn out to be more complex like a crank sensor or such…
Any background of engine running rough?
In the USA 1996 cars had to be OBD11 compliant but in Canada it didn’t happen until 1998 even though they had OBD11 ports installed.
Hey guys, thanks for the feedback 🙂
Your clicking with no start sounds like the starter is failing (solenoid)
hmmm, hopefully it’s nothing serious : . I came across a couple of videos with tests on the wiring to the solenoid/starter. Might give that a try when the suns up. Unfortunately my starter is in a terrible spot 🙁 right under the engine with little space to get my hands :
As for all your engine code. I would look for basic ignition inspection (plug, wire, oil leak by spark plug) might turn out to be more complex like a crank sensor or such…
I’ve done a couple of tests so far.
According to my repair manual, the specs & results say,~High Tension Lead Resistance Limit~
#1 Lead: 15.3 k/ohms === 6.59 k/ohms
#2 Lead: 12.4 k/ohms === 9.81 k/ohms
#3 Lead: 10.7 k/ohms === 7.95 k/ohms
#4 Lead: 8.80 k/ohms === 7.11 k/ohms~Ignition Coil Resistance~
On the Engine, it’s 1,2,3,4.
On the Coil, it’s 1,4,3,2With a multimetre, I linked Pin-3 with Pin-1 then pin-2 .. yet I got a 0.00 reading for all attempts .. what would this mean ?
Battery volts are around 12.5v , will have to contact a mechanic to see if they can do a load test & check the CCA.
Starter relay tested ok. I followed Erics video to test and it worked good. 🙂
trying to figure out where all the ground connectors are in the engine bay, but reading through the book, haven’t really discovered them yet. :
I did however, find a bit of water in Spark Plug cylinder #1. I wiped it out and all good now, but no code error for #1 came up.
Any background of engine running rough?
mmm not really. The start issue has been there for a while (which I might leave fixing for now uptil i get everything else fixed first). I have noticed a decrease in performance over the last year, which I have since done a service on a few months back. (filter, fluid changes)
Other than that, couldnt really tell of roughness to be honest :
In the USA 1996 cars had to be OBD11 compliant but in Canada it didn’t happen until 1998 even though they had OBD11 ports installed.
oh ok, I came across a post of someone who said they contacted Hyundai as to whether their 97/98 Hyundai had OBD2, Hyundai said it had 2 .. can’t remember if if was the Accent though. Will contact Hyundai mechanic(s) & see what they say I tihnk.
Thanks again guys, really appreciate it 🙂
I believe checking coil resistance is useless. The reason is that coils can easily test good and be bad. I’ve also confirmed this with ignition coil engineers. For that reason, I never do those tests, nor do I recommend them.
If you’re looking to solve a performance issue, this article is full of information and videos that can help you.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
I hope that information is helpful to you. Keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks Mr.Eric, certainly a good article, definitely helpful 🙂
Regarding Starter issues. I removed the starter (it was in a super awkward location, could really test/reach it properly so I took it out), and provided power to the Solenoid. I know when that happens, the gear pops out. But what does it mean if the gear pops out and tries turning slowly, even if no power is provided to the starter? It did this at first, but now just moves.
I provided power to the other connections too (starter and starter+solenoid) … seems to working alright. I removed the main cable harness too from battery > starter/soldenoid, checked connections on both cable and starter/solenoid.. nothing suss, looks mostly clean, but took a dremel with wire brish attachment and cleaned the contacts anyway.
Thoughts?
next I might do a voltage drop tests from battery > starter.. see how much of a drop there is.
Haven’t quite figured out the code issue as yet, put that on hold temporarily.
Thanks 🙂
In the future please start a new thread for a new problem. It makes our database happy.
That said, this video shows how to diagnose a starter issue.
Also this.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
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