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Hey Guys, So I bought this 2002 F150 Supercrew Lariat FX4 truck back in January with 160k on the odometer. Truck was in above average condition based on the interior and exterior appearance. I had my mechanic look it over and the only recommendation was replacing the spark plugs and a few hoses that were weak, as well as a new valve cover and gasket. All accessories were working and 4X4 engaged quickly and smoothly in high and low range. There were no apparent “leaks” visible either from above or beneath the truck. I went ahead and changed the oil, transmission fluid, diff oil, and had the spark plugs replaced back to the original motorcraft plugs. (I read about the spark plug nightmare that many of these trucks have). Upon extended driving of the truck after I purchased it, i did notice a slight ticking noise but it was barely noticeable. I’ve since put about 10k miles on the truck and noticed that the ticking is much quieter when the engine is cold and progressively get’s louder as it comes up to operating temperature. As I looked around on the net for similar issues with these trucks I immediately came across the cam phaser issues that the 2004’s and up were experiencing with the 3 valve 5.4 triton, but I believe mine is a 2 valve and did not have this cam phaser issue. I’m puzzled, because I thought the ticking/knocking when associated with valves usually happens with the engine cold and gets quieter as it heats up and the oil is able to get into the small spaces. Mine however, is having the exact opposite happening. I’ve attached video of the noise. The first is the engine “cold” at start-up. The second is after the engine has warmed up to operating temp. The noise seems louder on the passenger side front underneath engine or in the wheel well. It’s not so evident on the driver side. My main concern is if this is something that is going to cause issues if allowed to continue? Hopefully I didn’t leave out any information and the videos post correctly! Thanks in advance!
[video src="http://vid1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag50/pagarigan1/Cold_zpsonui8m74.mp4" /]
[video src="http://vid1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag50/pagarigan1/Hot_zpsqvyjg0xs.mp4" /]
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Adult content on the videos, have to sign in to view. Kind of not wanting to view that.
You need to get a stephascope and figure where exactly it’s coming from.
[quote=”Jasonw1178″ post=145777]Adult content on the videos, have to sign in to view. Kind of not wanting to view that.
You need to get a stephascope and figure where exactly it’s coming from.[/quote]
LOL, I promise I’m not trying to post inappropriate content! Apparently you can’t embed video from Flikr. I’m working on transferring the video to another host site now. Hopefully I’ll have it working soon…
Update… I got videos working in the original post ^^
This is going to sound a bit weird, but I would check for a small exhaust leak on that side. If what I’m hearing is the noise you have in mind, it doesn’t quite seem like a mechanical tick to me. And with the noise becoming louder with increasing engine temperature, it says to me that a leak/gap is growing as things heat up and expand.
Look for spots that are black in color underneath.Possibly needs an exhaust manifold and buy a new exhaust manifold.Worst part is getting the broken pieces of the studs out of the head.Sometimes using a left hand drill bit will get them out.Last one of these I got lucky,my twist sockets save me time getting out these studs out of the head without cutting them off.
If the above suggestions don’t help try this:
Verify the source of the noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.
Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter area, from underneath the vehicle). Sometimes a catalytic converter will make a sound like that after warm up for a period of time on a ’99 to ’02 150
Verify that the tick noise is still present when canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the injectors one at a timeThanks for the suggestions, I figure I’ll start easy with looking for black spots on the manifold and move to the stethascope from there. Curious though, if the catalytic converter is bad, doesn’t that usually throw a code? Or is the noise in the cat not enough to cause a failure? Also if you don’t mind JTC I have a rookie question… why would no change in the ticking while unplugging injectors point to the cat? Just trying to understand how that works. Maybe another ETCG video is in order?? 😉
I should have explained a little more…. Reasoning for checking in the wheel well or catalytic converter area, from underneath the vehicle is to verify where the noise is coming from. If I remember Ford had a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) about a ticking noise coming from the catalytic converter at idle from ’99 to 02. It was info only TSB the catalytic converter was ok…. yes with no code indicating a catalytic converter your catalytic converter is most likely ok.
The reasoning for verifying the source of the noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust ports is to pinpoint the area where the noise is coming from.
The reasoning for verifying that the tick noise is still present when canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the injectors one at a time is for checking an exhaust manifold leak. When unplugging the injector at each cylinder you’re stopping fuel to the cylinder which stops the fuel/ignition explosion. If the ticking noise stops or subsides at that time you have an exhaust manifold leak in that area. If the ticking noise is still present further diagnosis will have to be done….maybe to the camshaft valve spring area.MtnGoat stated: Just trying to understand how that works. Maybe another ETCG video is in order??
In my opinion no question is a “rookie question”. You have to ask questions to understand. I’m retired and after 38 years of working on G.M. and Ford vehicles, I’m still asking questions. This web site is a good place to ask those automotive questions because of the expert resources available plus the ETCG videos!
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