Leak Down Testing
A leak down test can tell you quite a bit more about an engine’s mechanical health than a compression test can. They both test the sealing ability of the combustion chamber, but the leak down can tell you how much is leaking and where it’s going.
Browse Recommended Tools & Supplies For This Build
The procedure is similar to a compression test, to a point. I might break out my leak down tester after I find a cylinder with low compression, or I might start with a leak down tester when I suspect a mechanical problem with the engine. To perform the test, you must first remove the spark plug on the cylinder you’re going to test. You can pull all the plugs to make turning the engine over easier.
In order to test a given cylinder, it needs to be at Top Dead Center (TDC). To get a cylinder at TDC, you need to turn the engine over by hand. This is much easier to do with all the spark plugs removed. As you might know, the piston goes to TDC twice during the four-stroke engine cycle: once for the compression stroke, and once for the exhaust stroke.
There are a few different ways you can determine this. The first is to follow the firing order of the engine, starting with cylinder one. To determine if you’re on the compression stroke on cylinder one, you can use a couple of different techniques. The first is to place a piece of paper or other loose material over the spark plug hole as you rotate the engine. When the object moves out of the way, you know you’re on the compression stroke. Another way is to install a vacuum gauge into the spark plug hole. You can actually use the hose that you thread into the spark plug hole and hook your vacuum gauge up to that.
I should mention that your vacuum gauge needs to be able to read pressure as well as vacuum. As you rotate the engine, look for the gauge to go into the positive. As the piston approaches TDC, the pressure will go to zero and then start to go to vacuum as you pass TDC. You can work the engine back and forth till you find the moment were TDC happens. Here’s a video that explains the process.
Now that you know you have the piston at TDC, it’s time to do the leak down test.
- Hook your tester hose directly into the spark plug hole.
- Hook your leak down tester up to shop air and zero the pressure. This will be important later so you know how much is leaking out.
- Then, hook the tester to the hose and take your reading.
Leakages above 20% are considered excessive. I like to see them closer to 10%, but as an engine wears, its compression and ability to seal will be lessened. But wait, there’s more! Not only will you know how much is leaking, but you’ll now be able to figure out where the pressure is going simply by listening for where the air is escaping.
- If you remove the oil cap and hear a lot of air escaping, the rings are worn and that’s where your compression loss is.
- If you hear it coming out of the intake, the intake valve(s) isn’t sealing.
- If you hear it coming out the tail pipe, the exhaust valve(s) is leaking.
- If you take the radiator cap off and see bubbles coming out, you have a combustion leak into the cooling system, which could be a bad head gasket.
I don’t often use an actual leak down tester when doing this test. In fact, I do a compression test and look for a problem cylinder, and if I find it, I take a little short cut. You can actually use your compression tester hose for leak down testing. You first have to remove the Schrader valve in the compression tester hose. Once you’ve done that you can then hook shop air directly into the cylinder. You don’t need to know how much is leaking at this point, because you’ve already determined that a particular cylinder has low compression. All you want to know now is where the leak is going.
Doing it this way is a personal preference, but it can save you from purchasing another tool, thus leaving a little cash in your pocket. If you’ve got mechanical issues with your engine, you’re going to need it. Here’s a video on leak down testing that can walk you through the process that includes this little trick of using the compression tester hose hooked up to shop air to find the source of a leak.
Video Title: Leak Down Testing – Solving Automotive Performance Issues – EricTheCarGuy Video Description: In this Article, Leak Down Testing, we look at how to do Leak Down Testing to Check Engine Performance.
Tools/Supplies For This Build:
Reversible ratchet type with chrome-plated tube Knurled handle Knurled locking nut for holding torque setting Specifications: Drive: 3/8″ ...
Ergonomic Cushion grip handles with safety rests Hands won’t slip off pliers Assortment of styles for jobs around the home,...
Slotted and Philips bits for general purpose applications Star bits for mobile phones and other electronic applications Convenient bit storage...
Complete Combustion Leak Test Kit – Includes Fluid – Nothing More to Buy When Fluid Turns From BLUE to YELLOW...
Most effective way to add A/C dye Compatible with R-134a, R-1234yf and other refrigerants Ideal for high-volume shops Services up...
The Infrared Thermometer is great for checking temperatures of heater vents, AC’s, engines, mufflers, tires, brakes, and more. It measures...
Tests automotive pressurized cooling systems up to 30 PSI Kit includes: Pump with gauge 12” hose and cap adapter to...
– All purpose heavy-duty scraper removes shellacked gaskets, paint, grease, and carbon – Forged alloy steel blade with sharp chisel...
2 thoughts on “Leak Down Testing”
james betts
April 29, 2020 at 6:13 am
Eric when in doubt squirt some oil down the cylinder if compression comes back up it’s the rings. if it doesn’t then you have at least eliminated the rings as the cause for the most part. Cheap tools have there place but we get what we pay for and those not made in the USA brands usually leas to headaches, frustration.and erroneous results.
Brett
March 11, 2020 at 3:01 pm
HI! There i have a question about The Leak Cylinder Tester,, Can i not plug the air fitting on the left side , and use it also a Compression tester ?? Thks for help.