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I have a 02 Accord V6 that needs the front and passenger motor mounts replaced. Front mount looks like I would first raise front of car, place on jack stands, use a floor jack with a block of wood under oil pan, raise engine enough to release tension on mount, and then remove mounting bolts from motor mount. Reverse for reinstallation. Same procedure for the passenger side ? Any tips, advice, torque specs. from someone who has done this before would be appreciated.
Also any preference, OE vs aftermarket for the replacement parts ?
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I prefer OEM parts over aftermarket a you get what you pay for.
Most motor mount replacement are pretty straight forward.
Did you check out the free link to Chilton’s online in the ‘How To’ section for torque specifications and procedure?
I did try to use the online Chilton’s manual link provided on this site. Looked through all the sections that might apply with no luck. I was able to locate a Haynes manual and it looks straight forward as you mentioned. Also provided torque specs. I agree with OE parts in this case, do not want to redo this in future due to inferior parts.
One more question, Haynes manual says to apply non-hardening locktite on the bolts. Is this really needed if you are using a torque wrench on the bolts ?
Thanks for all your input and knowledge that you bring to this forum.
If they say to use locktite then it probably would be a good idea cause it may be a area with a lot of vibration.
Pretty much how I would approach this – raise the front of the car on the jack stands and support the engine from the bottom, service one engine mount at a time. Although since I have a screw jack, I would use this instead of a floor jack. And no, you should not need torque wrench for the motor mounts. (you can, but this isn’t that critical enough)
Thanks for everyone’s input. I will order the parts and replace these next weekend. OE parts ran about $190. Honda dealer wanted to charge my son $525 to replace these two mounts.
One more question related to removing the passenger side mount. Haynes manual says to support transaxle not the oil pan. The transaxle is on the opposite side (driver side) from the mount. Seems like oil pan would make more sense. Is this a typo in the manual or am I missing something ?
I would support the oil pan or as close to center of gravity as possible if that makes sense?
Take your time with the repair and keep us posted.
Maybe make a how to with pictures?
Good luck C8-)
Yea that’s pretty much it but there is no left side mount if I remember correctly just a couple of ‘dampers’ under the transmission on the left side. Mostly what I’ve seen is the right side mount on the front of the engine and the front mount behind the radiator go bad, the rest normally hold up pretty well. The mount behind the radiator however can be tricky as I normally drop the subframe to replace that one, I’ve dropped plenty of sub frames to replace transmission however so it’s just easier for me to do it that way.
Eric
Yes, your description of the mounts is correct. I need to replace the front mount behind the radiator and the other mount on the timing belt side. The rear mount is OK. You mentioned dropping the sub frame for the front mount. I was not planning on doing this. After unbolting the stud bolt in the center of mount and the four bolts on the sub frame it appeared I could just raise the mount upward pass the radiator. First using a floor jack under the oil pan with block of wood. Then raising the engine enough to clear the center stud of the mount. There is a heat shield on the exhaust that blocks the back left bolt at first but after that is removed I can use a flex joint on my extension in order to gain access to the back left bolt.
So with all that said is there a clearance issue with removing the mount upward ? I did see on the internet when researching this job some people mentioned removing one of the radiator fans because of clearance issues.
Thanks again your input and advice.Quoted From fitone:
Eric
Yes, your description of the mounts is correct. I need to replace the front mount behind the radiator and the other mount on the timing belt side. The rear mount is OK. You mentioned dropping the sub frame for the front mount. I was not planning on doing this. After unbolting the stud bolt in the center of mount and the four bolts on the sub frame it appeared I could just raise the mount upward pass the radiator. First using a floor jack under the oil pan with block of wood. Then raising the engine enough to clear the center stud of the mount. There is a heat shield on the exhaust that blocks the back left bolt at first but after that is removed I can use a flex joint on my extension in order to gain access to the back left bolt.
So with all that said is there a clearance issue with removing the mount upward ? I did see on the internet when researching this job some people mentioned removing one of the radiator fans because of clearance issues.
Thanks again your input and advice.I replaced all the motor mounts on my 2000 EX V6. The hardest one to do was the rear. The front and passenger side are pretty easy. The only thing that was tricky was getting enough clearance on the front to push the new motor mount underneath. I had to muscle it a bit. I had more trouble aligning the four bolts on the rear. I dont remember if I had any issues with lining up the 4 bolts for the front motor mount. I wish I never bothered with the rear, kinda of a pain and it was in ok condition. You dont need to remove the radiator fan for it to work (I didnt).
Quoted From IanG:
I replaced all the motor mounts on my 2000 EX V6. The hardest one to do was the rear. The front and passenger side are pretty easy. The only thing that was tricky was getting enough clearance on the front to push the new motor mount underneath. I had to muscle it a bit. I had more trouble aligning the four bolts on the rear. I dont remember if I had any issues with lining up the 4 bolts for the front motor mount. I wish I never bothered with the rear, kinda of a pain and it was in ok condition. You dont need to remove the radiator fan for it to work (I didnt).
IanG,
Thanks for that info. So for the front mount your removal path was to move into the “free” space upward past the upper radiator hose and it cleared everything OK if I understand you correctly ?
Also for the passenger side mount did you support the engine under the oil pan similar to the front mount ?Quoted From fitone:
IanG,
Thanks for that info. So for the front mount your removal path was to move into the “free” space upward past the upper radiator hose and it cleared everything OK if I understand you correctly ?
Also for the passenger side mount did you support the engine under the oil pan similar to the front mount ?I would have to take a look but I dont remember having any issue removing it. You will need to jack the engine up to remove the front motor mount. So while you have the engine jacked up, you can replace both the side engine mount and the front motor mount. I think I even loosened the nut for the rear engine mount (but left it on) to give myself a little more room for the engine to lift. I dont know if this helped or is even a good thing but thats what I did.
I actually lifted the engine using a wood block under the transmission because I think thats what is in the manual. When I replaced the timing belt I used a wood block under the oil pan because thats what is in the manual for the TB replacement. I think either one would be fine.
The only issue you might have is getting the engine back on the mount. I muscled it myself and prayed. You might need help with a friend or a pry bar. Also, just remember to lower the engine back down slowly, doublecheck your work, and you should be good.
Yea getting the clearance for the front mount may prove difficult so keep an eye on the wires and everything else down there as you lift the engine.
I just wanted to follow-up with the replacement of the front and right (passenger-side) engine mounts for my 02 Accord V6. I used my Haynes manual as a basic guide along with all the advice provided by this forum. The front mount steps in the Haynes manual are over simplified. Read below for details Thanks to everyone who posted. The passenger side was pretty straight forward. The steps were as follows:
1. Jack-up front of car and place jack stands on each side of the car. Assume that you know how to do this properly and safely.
2. Place floor jack under the transaxle to remove weight from the mount. Be sure to use a block of wood between jack and transaxle.
3. Disconnect negative battery cable. Just a safety measure here, just in case. Be sure that you have activation code prior to disconnecting.
4. Cruise control assembly over the mount needs to be moved out of the way in order to access/remove the mount. Remove the two 10mm bolts on the cruise control mounting bracket and disconnect the wiring connection near the unit. Rotate the entire assembly over and place on top of upper intake.
5. Remove the 17mm through-bolt in center of mount and 10mm bolt for the electrical cable.
6. Remove to two 14mm bolts holding the engine bracket in place. Remove the three 14mm mount-to chassis bolts. There is also a plastic tubing support for a A/C line. Just remove A/C line away from support. Support will be reused for the new mount. Remove the mount up through the path you created by removing the cruise control assembly.
7. Installation is the reserve steps of removal. I used a little Loctite on the the nuts/ bolts. If you are only replacing this mount that basically it, if however you are replacing the front mount don’t replace the 17mm through-bolt in step 5. You will need this bolt removed to jack-up the engine high enough to remove the front mount. Notice the bold print…Front mount was more difficult for a DIYer. Eric was right about lifting the engine high enough to clear the center stud of the mount and this would be a possible issue. So the steps for the front mount were as follows:
1. Remove 17mm nut where the mount stud goes through the engine bracket.
2. Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the mount to the chassis cross member, then disconnect the vacuum hose from the bottom of the mount.
3. Raise the engine enough for the stud to clear the upper engine bracket and remove mount upward past the upper radiator hose. No clearance issues in this removal path.
4. Just suffice to say that reinstall was trail and error. First install vacuum line to bottom of mount. Then install 17mm nut that goes on top of engine mount bracket.
5. This step is where I wound-up using two floor jacks. The first one was already in place under the oil pan and a second floor jack was placed under the transaxle. The two jacks were then carefully lowered and raised such that the four mounting holes in the mount started to align with the engine chassis mount. This was the tricky part and I hope my explanation somewhat gets the point across. Then it was just a matter of replacing the four 14mm bolts.
6. Replace the 17mm bolt that you left removed on the passenger side mount.
7. Raise car and remove floor jacks. Do final tightening of mount bolts when wheels are back on the a level surface.
Total time for all of this was about three hours. The front mount was about 2/3 of this time and as I mentioned some trial and error. I would also recommend using Honda OE parts for this repair. Total cost was around $190 shipping & parts from Bernardiparts.com. I hope this helps someone in the future. Sorry for no pictures to go along with my words but I was pushed for time.
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