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So, here we go – Eric’s all-time FAVORITE question: 🙂
I’ve done the following but the stinkin’ car will not start!So I got the car as a gift – it was not starting
Issues: loads of oil in 3 of the 4 plug wells, crank no start
1. Replaced plugs (Autolite at first, now NGK), wires (some off-brand junk…probably need to get NGK), valve cover gasket (complete kit – even the tube seals) with Fel-Pro
Got the car running but then after warm-up, it would sputter, then die when pressing the gas2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced PCV Valve
4. Disassembled & cleaned throttle body (new Fel-Pro gasket on reassembly)
5. Disassembled & cleaned fast idle valve
6. flushed & burped coolant
7. checked compression and fuel pressure – both good
8. Replaced Distributor Cap, Rotor, and Ignition Coil (Beck/Arnley parts for all 3) – prior coil tested bad with ohm meter
9. Checked Main Relay – okay
10. Tried using carb cleaner in throttle – still no startI’ve noticed the cranking is not exactly rhythmic – it seems to be a little off.
Should I replace the fuel pressure regulator next? What is going wrong, here?
Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
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Looks good so far. Follow the rest of the vManual and get it all back together. This was an important exercise to verify the mechanicals so that further troubleshooting, if necessary, from this point further won’t just be chasing the tail. In other words, it doesn’t help anything to troubleshoot electrical, fuel, and ignition when the base mechanicals are wrong. Be careful fitting the belt so that things don’t get nudged out of place.
So here’s something I wasn’t expecting: the ends of the distributor key broke clean off and were found in their respective notches on the camshaft end…
guess I’ll be buying a new distributor…I hear over and over and over again to not go with aftermarket parts when it comes to honda electrical – why is this? will an aftermarket get me down the road, or will it not work altogether?
Honda parts are quite a bit more expensive…With over 30 years of experience working on cars and trucks, I can tell you honestly that OEM is preferred to aftermarket. With that said, I have installed plenty of aftermarket parts. For your specific situation, a parts-store remanufactured distributor is just as good as a new OEM. The differences come in the subassembly with non-OEM coil, igniter, etc. It is debated that the aftermarket sub-parts are as good, or not as good, as OEM. I think you would be alright with the less expensive aftermarket option for this repair job.
Thanks for that information – I really need to save money at this point…
If I were to buy the distributor housing, would that include the key?
It should. I haven’t seen one that didn’t. Just ask to take a look at it before you buy so that you can see what it comes with.
I prefer to order my parts from RockAuto so I’ll have to wait on the distributor. In the meantime, I’m assuming I can proceed with the remainder of the TB assembly?
Also, Just to re-check, I tested the resistance of both coils I have – the TC18A which is in the car, and the TC19A which came out of it (TC19A is the one that’s supposed to be in this model). Both units tested out between terminals A&C and A and secondary, but neither one showed ANY resistance whatsoever on the B-D terminal test. I thought maybe my multimeter was bad (crappy Harbor Freight meter) so I used my old-school dial meter – same results.
Do I have 2 bad coils?
Ok, let’s see what’s happening with this. Refer to the drawing below to make sure my letters match yours.
These are the resistance tests to make.
1) between the A and C terminal. This should be between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms.
2) between the A terminal and the secondary terminal. This should be between 14k and 22k.
3) between A and B. This should be 0.0 ohms, or very close to it.
4) between B and D. This should be between 2.09k and 2.31k.If ANY of those measurements are outside the listed range, the coil is faulty. Yes, you could have two bad coils, if they both fail the above test.
On the wiring that goes to the coil do you have three or four wires? Specifically, is there a blue one?
Okay so it turns out it only has 3 wires:
[URL=http://s772.photobucket.com/user/scubacamper/media/IMG_1251.jpg.html][IMG]http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy3/scubacamper/IMG_1251.jpg[/IMG][/URL]And here are the wires coming out of the distributor, just in case:
[URL=http://s772.photobucket.com/user/scubacamper/media/IMG_1252.jpg.html][IMG]http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy3/scubacamper/IMG_1252.jpg[/IMG][/URL]Ok, so you won’t need to worry about the B to D terminal test, because that is for a tach signal that comes off of at the fourth wire, a blue one, which you don’t have, so your coils may not have the internals for it (which would explain your test results). With that said, the two coils you have are fine then, because you only need to worry about the A to C and A to secondary tests, which you said are good.
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