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I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX and my ABS light is on. I pulled the code using the paperclip method. It had only one code which is, one long blink with NO second short blink, then it did it again one long blink and NO second short blink, and then again one long blink with NO second short blink. It only did that three times and then the ABS light stop blinking after that. I went on to your website and it stated, ABS pump motor over-run for code 1 but can you double check for me please.
Here is the list from ETCG website for 1994-1997 Honda ABS:
1 – ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 – rear wheel lock – R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock – R
5 8 rear wheel lock – L
6 – fail-safe relay – F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay – F
6 4 fail-safe relay – R
7 1 solenoid – RF
7 2 solenoid – LF
7 4 solenoid – R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-checkI really don’t know what the code I pulled out means so can anyone help please. Thanks
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In the past few months, I don’t believe I got my CV shaft replaced. According to my maintenance log, I did however get my inner /outer tie rods changed and my front right upper control arm replaced. On my lunch today what I will do is record the flashes I’m getting and slow it down. Tomh you are the best! So detailed, Much appreciated.
I asked about the CV shaft because the reluctor ring is part of the CV shaft, and it is possible to get a non ABS CV shaft, and install it into an ABS car, which will cause that particular wheels speed sensor to not work. Changing the upper control arm / ball joint assembly, and inner / outer tie rod ends shouldn’t cause any problems, though the outer tie rod end is fairly close to the location of the wheel speed sensor, so it is possible that a slip with a hammer, pickle fork, or pry bar could cause damage to the sensor.
If you can, post that video up so we can have a look at it. Sometimes knowing what to expect helps you to understand what you are seeing. I’ve pulled ABS codes a few times on these cars, so I know what they look like.
Okay so this is the link of the video I took for you. Thanks again for your help
https://youtu.be/hiGnf0BaqEAI recorded until the blinking stopped
Also as a note. ABS light has been on before I made any pf the repairs i told you about earlier so I doubt its due to that.
Looks to me like
4 4 wheel sensor RR
and
1 8 high pressure systemGreat job with the video, almost like being there to pull the codes myself 🙂
That is flashing two codes. The first code is 4 – 4 and the second is 1 – 8. 4 – 4 is wheel sensor right rear. That isn’t a big deal. The second code is high pressure system. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to fix that is to replace the entire ABS pump. That is likely an expensive proposition.
The good news is, the ABS is kind of an add on for the 94 – 97 Accords. If you pull the fuse, the ABS light will go off, and the brakes will work exactly like a non ABS car would.
Hey Tomh,
Thank you for the help. I will relay this information to my mechanic and ask him if it’s something worth resolving or just pulling the fuse. Like I told you earlier I want the car to last at least a year more so I can have a nice down payment for my next vehicle. Have a wonderful weekend. Your help is really appreciated.
Sincerely,
Andrea MI ran my last Accord (’94) with the ABS disconnected (instead of pulling the fuse, I unplugged the ABS computer which is in the passengers side foot well, behind the kick panel) for a bit over 2 years. It doesn’t cause any harm, won’t lessen the life of the brakes or anything else, and is exactly the same as driving a non ABS version of the car.
The labor to install a new ABS pump isn’t terribly bad, in most cases less than two hours work, but finding a good pump is going to be a challenge. Buying used isn’t advisable, as failures in these pumps are pretty common, and with the age of these cars, finding new, or re-manufactured units is getting difficult, and they aren’t cheap. Add in the fact that you will still likely need that right rear wheel speed sensor, and it adds up to a pile of cash.
Yeah. I agree. The sensor alone is pricey and I think I might need a new distributor <–pricey (recently got a tune up but the rotor and cap didn't do the trick, will be removing those and just getting a new one). I'll find find the ABS computer and unplug it myself, I can do that part myself.
ThanksIn my experience, if there isn’t a bunch of oil inside the distributor, and the main shaft doesn’t wiggle all over the place, then it is unlikely that there are any problems with it. It is likely any problems you are having with it not running smoothly are elsewhere.
Yes, you can unplug the ABS computer yourself. I’d show you what it looks like, but I no longer have an ABS equipped Accord.
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