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Hello,
I have a 1996 Nissan Pickup 2.4(KA24E) 4×4 I have had the motor rebuilt the head rebuilt and a new cam. the truck runs and drives but it won’t rev higher than 2500 rpm. What is the cause of this? I have new parts as listed due to being bad: injectors, IAC, Throttle position sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Distributor, oil pump, swirl control valve, O2 sensor and a few others I am sure. The truck cranks, starts, and runs with no problem. I was told it may be a MAF, but I unplug it and no change. the truck idles as of right around 1500 rpm at idle until i shift into gear then it idles down. All timing marks line up if the distributor is turned “retarded” or advanced the truck won’t idle and dies. Please help this is my daily commuter.
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my question is ignition advancing with RPM? when you say rev limited to 2,500RPM does it sort of seem to cut off at that RPM or just seem to not want to rev up any higher?
Do you have a engine light or any codes?
The engine wont rev any higher. Like its got a governor on it check engine light only comes on when you rev the rpms up to it. Doesnt matter what gear.
Check to make sure your coolant temp sensor is working. On a lot of cars the computer won’t let you rev past a certain rpm if it sees the engine as cold.
I don’t have a code reader and not really sure about taking it to a “parts house” to let some kid try to figure it out…… The temp sensor on the truck seems to be working fine. It warms us like it is suppose to. It does seem to be running a lil rich but not like it use to be.. Nissan guy wants to charge 90 an hour and says he may not be able to diagnose it. I don’t want to pay for a maybe. I appreciate all help and input.
If you have a check engine light, you need to get the codes out of it. Otherwise you could throw parts at it all year and not fix the issue. Most parts stores will read the codes for you, or if you have an Android smartphone, you can get a bluetooth OBDII dongle from amazon (around $15 US) and there are a number of free apps that will read the codes.
The FSM for your model can be found at:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/1996_D21_Truck/
Once you get the codes, the trouble shooting procedures can be found in the ec.pdf section.
[quote=”dtidman” post=147688]If you have a check engine light, you need to get the codes out of it. Otherwise you could throw parts at it all year and not fix the issue. Most parts stores will read the codes for you, or if you have an Android smartphone, you can get a bluetooth OBDII dongle from amazon (around $15 US) and there are a number of free apps that will read the codes.
The FSM for your model can be found at:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/1996_D21_Truck/
Once you get the codes, the trouble shooting procedures can be found in the ec.pdf section.[/quote]
this right here… if you have codes, you need to get them read, or you could take a 10 minute job and make it a 2 day wild goose chace of changing parts and never find the issue. having some codes to read would narrow down the problem, and yes… i know its a hasle to have someone read codes, but hey… you could save yoursef a LOT…. of money man! could be something stupid simple!
Not to recently worked on my grandfathers car, he had a issue the parts guy suggested throwing parts at, but he knew i could fix it, plugged a scan tool in, extracted the code, diagnosed and eliminated all the posibilities, replaced the faulty component, part was only $30 bucks out the door, and the job itself maybe took 30 minutes if that, would have been faster if i had a lift.
The Mass Air Flow sensor had a burned out diode so I replaced it. That resolved the rev problem. Now it runs real rich. Any suggestions?
I No longer trust new parts so the problem to my truck was bad “new” mass air flow sensor and bad “new” fuel pressure regulator. Truck runs great.
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