- This topic has 25 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hello all..i have a 1997 accord se 2.2 f22b2..i just bought the car from a friend that bought it new..he had someone change the timing belt and now it has no power..i just took it apart and its in time..I’ve changed three tb on these model engines. So i took off the distributor cap and noticed its pointint to # 4 i think..if #1cylinder is near left fender and if #1 on the distributor cap is next to the A with the circle anround it has to be 180 off..the rotor is pointed in the 10 o’clock position but should it be 4 o’clock according to cap? Would it run 180 off? Also when running the exhaust coming out the pipe is high in volume and erratic..bent vavle..he also put autozone cap that has a crack a cheap wires…helphelphelp
-
Replies
-
No way its 180 off..i took the distributor off and it only goes on one way but the rotor is pointing to #4 if #1 cylinder is on the left..it has only 105k..auto zone said the #1 on the cap should be pointing toward the bumper not 10 o’clock..no cel..
Perhaps the high tension wires from the cap to the plugs are in the wrong order? Not likely that it would run at all, but it’s worth checking.
I’d say you really need to double and triple check your timing belt installation. This picture confuses me:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/attachment/8772
To my eye, it looks like the timing gear is a poor fit on the crankshaft snout, and it seems like the key isn’t even engaged in the gear’s keyway.
It looks normal in person but another thing is the woodruff key is stuck..so maube your right..ive tugged on it and i will not budge..whoever did the tb used a chain because the balancer is chipped and cracked..how do i get the key out
A picture is (usually) worth a thousand words:
Just make sure you’re checking these with #1 on compression stroke and not exhaust stroke.
Thats whats so confusing..according to the diagram my cap #1cylinder should be the one with the A with the circle which i have but the rotor is pointing to the 10 o’clock one like the other cap..its a non vtech f22b2..also i found this vtech pic and thats how mine is wired up..the timing marks are right..
Any suggestions as to get this woodruff key out..ive tugged on it for 3 hours with every tool i own…will not budge..
How could it be 180 off if the cam sprocket is facing up and the timing marks on the balancer are lined up with the notch on the lower timing cover? Its on #1 tdc on the compression stroke be the rotor points in the wrong direction..if it was the exaust stroke the the cam sprocket UP mark would be in the down position correct? The car runs very poorly with zero power..but at speed with no load its smooth. No CEL…no smoke…please help…when i take off from a light i can floor it and it take 20 seconds to get to 50…the timing is correct..clogged converter?
Your wire are in the wrong order, #1 is on #2 high tension tower.
Reinstall the the, rotate the engine by hand 360 degrees, make sure the timing marks align correct again, rotate the engine again, make sure you are on the compression stroke. When you get to TDC, pull the distributor and make sure the notch is correct to engage the distributor correct, . reinstall the distributor, pull the distributor rotor and make sure it’s on correctly. It may have gotten damaged. Now install the wires per the firing order. Retime the engine, I believe you have to short out the timing. It’s located where you hook up the wire for reading codes. Time the engine per the specs outlined on the sticker.So, not all of these are pictures of your car, right?
The picture showing the plug wires has a VTEC valve cover, and you said your car isn’t VTEC.
The picture showing the distributor rotor has the rotor in the correct #1 position for a F22B1/VTEC distributor cap. You said your engine is an F22B2. Is that a photo of your car?
Please be patient with me..thanks for your reply..yes my cap and rotor are toast..are you saying my engine is out of time? If i rotate the engine 360 the up on the cam sprocket will be facing down but the rotor will be in the correct position..Your wire are in the wrong order, #1 is on #2 high tension tower..whats that mean?..i know its a wrong wire order ..
Yes..not my vtec..but my rotor is pointing in that direction..f22b2..all the others are mine. The crank is on its marker..cam sprocket is pointing up. Two notches are parallel with head but the rotor is pointing to #4. If i spin the crank 360 the cam up is pointing down but the rotor is correct..
These are the wires off the car..wired for my f22b2…if the crank was lined up with the notch on balancer and lower timing cover but if i was on the exhaust stroke at tdc, would not the cam sprocket up marker be facing down? My crank notch is lined up with my pointer on lower timing cover and my sprocket up marker is facing up with 2 marks parallel with cylinder head. Is that not tdc on the compression stroke? I did put a screwdriver in #1 next to left wheel..BUT MY ROTOR IS 180 OFF..im stumped..these are pics of my car..1997 accord special edition f22b2…someone did the timing belt and i bought it…zero power..with no load runs but takes 20 seconds floored to get to speed..misses..i know its the firing order..just checked the rotor to make sure it was not on backwards..nope
These are the wires off the car..wired for my f22b2…if the crank was lined up with the notch on balancer and lower timing cover but if i was on the exhaust stroke at tdc, would not the cam sprocket up marker be facing down? My crank notch is lined up with my pointer on lower timing cover and my sprocket up marker is facing up with 2 marks parallel with cylinder head. Is that not tdc on the compression stroke? I did put a screwdriver in #1 next to left wheel..BUT MY ROTOR IS 180 OFF..im stumped..these are pics of my car..1997 accord special edition f22b2…someone did the timing belt and i bought it…zero power..with no load runs but takes 20 seconds floored to get to speed..misses..i know its the firing order..just checked the rotor to make sure it was not on backwards..nope
The crank will be in #1TDC position twice per four stroke cycle. Once for compression, once for exhaust. That means for each four stroke cycle the crank will rotate completely twice while the cam rotates completely only once. Hence, if you’re going by crank position only, there is a chance that the timing belt was installed while the crank was in the correct position but the #1 cylinder was in exhaust stroke. There should be no tension on any of the rockers for #1 cylinder when the timing belt is installed. If there is tension on the rocker, that means the valve isn’t closed, and the cylinder is not on compression stroke. All of the valves for #1 must be closed during compression stroke. Re-check the position of the cam and crank positions, make sure the valves for #1 are all fully closed, that the marks line up, then install the timing belt. When reassembling, make sure the ignition wires are installed on the correct distributor towers and in the correct firing order. When the engine and valve timing is correct, and the distributor is properly installed, the rotor will naturally point to the #1 tower.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.