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1997 Chevy Blazer 2-Door Ful pump & Sending Unit

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 1997 Chevy Blazer 2-Door Ful pump & Sending Unit

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  • #504778
    Daniel DominBlazerguy1983
    Participant

      I was wondering if anyone can tell me if I need to install the 4-pin connector with 4 wires that come with almost every new sending unit? The new sending unit and fuel pump comes witth wire butt connectors too. I really don’t want to cut the original wire connector off the truck to attach the new one. Im sure there has to be a reason why it’s there with the new pump. Can I get away with skipping this step and if not recommended to skip this step can I use wire tap connecters instead of the butt connectors? This way I don’t have to cut off the old harnesss connector. Thanks.

    Viewing 4 replies - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
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    • #505185
      ShawnShawn
      Participant

        I’m not an expert and I’m just letting you know what worked for me. I’m sure there are some techs here that could tell you for sure.

        I have a 98 GMC Jimmy and had to replace this part. I just cleaned the existing 4 pin connector with some contact cleaner and made sure there was no corrosion. I didn’t even use the new connector.

        I have had no problems. I’m assuming they send the new connector just in case the new unit connection differs from the old connector, but I am no expert.

        http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_qd&174;-electronic-cleaner-crc_7070074-p?searchTerm=electrical+cleaner

        #505299
        college mancollege man
        Moderator

          The stock 4 pin connector should be used in the stock
          location.The 4 pin connector that comes with it is in
          case there is another application.

          #506800
          Daniel DominBlazerguy1983
          Participant

            I wanted to let you guys all know that my fuel gauge is fixed. It was bad resistor and float on the sending unit. The resistor was burned and had varnish and the float rod had a lot of play in it and wasn’t pushing the contacts against the resistor chip very well. I was a Carter brand. Seamed kind of cheap. I got a great deal on eBay for $129.99 with free shipping from a top rated seller for a new AC-Delco pump and sending unit. I installed it this past Sunday at my buddy’s garage. It wasn’t too bad to do but, is good to have the help of a buddy to lower the tank so you don’t break the nylon fuel lines. It is also recommended to purchase a GM quick disconnect fuel line tool to help unplug the plastic connections from the pump for the fuel lines. Harbor Freight sells them real cheap and work great. I broke the center quick connect end though but, it was just a breather line to the charcoal canister. I cut off the plastic quick connection off the nylon line and put a rubber hose with a hose clamp on both sides and seem to be holding fine. It’s not a fuel line and doesn’t have high pressure in it. I also had to use the 4 pin electrical connector that came with the new unit. The plug style on the new pump was way different than the one coming off the truck. It came with 4 butt wire connectors but I Soldered the wires instead and heat skunked them to keep them dry. My fuel gauge works perfect now and could be all in my head but I swear it runs better too. More pickup and smoother idle. I didn’t change the fuel filter because I just installed a new one in October. So I hope my infor help someone out. I also want to thank everyone that replied about the 4 pin wire connector. It was very helpful! Have a good one everyone!

            #506839
            college mancollege man
            Moderator

              Glad to hear it worked out. 🙂

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