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1998 chrysler cirrus no brake pressure

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 1998 chrysler cirrus no brake pressure

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  • #852928
    TyTy
    Participant

      Hello,
      My girlfriends chrysler cirrus has had bad brakes for some time now and she said her car wasnt stopping when she tried to stop. I then replaced the brake pads and shoes on all 4 wheeles. We test drove the car and I found out there was actually a hole in her rear passenger brake line. Sprayed fluid like a fire hose. I replaced that brake line/tube today. Still no brake pressure, master cylinder has plenty of fluid, and no leaking by any of the wheels or master cylinder. I pumped the brakes plenty, but I may not have bled the air out properly.

      Based on what I explained, will my brakes work after bleeding the air properly or could there be something else wrong? Should I bleed that one wheel that I replaced the brake line or will I have to bleed every wheel? When I drive and apply the brake, the car slowwwwwly stops, just the same as before with the leaking brake line. The emergency brake works fine.

      Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks!

    Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
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    • #852930
      Nightflyr *Richard Kirshy
      Participant

        If as you say the issue has been for a while.
        And you have replaced all the brake pads and shoes, and found no further brake fluid leaks.
        Suggest you fully bleed all four wheels.

        #852938
        TyTy
        Participant

          Thanks for the advice. The bleeder nuts look very rusted and the rear passenger bleeder wouldnt break when I quickly fiddled with it. What will I need to do if that bleeder valve wont break?

          #852961
          Nightflyr *Richard Kirshy
          Participant

            What will I need to do if that bleeder valve wont break?
            First clean off as much corrosion as possible (wire brush) the spray some good penetrating oil on it and let it soak in.
            A 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid will also works extremely well also.
            Then try to loosen the bleeder with a flair nut wrench.

            If that fail
            The Big Red Wrench…
            A torch… heat up the bleeder (carefully) and slowly work it free.
            If it does break (considering the age )… a replacement wheel cylinder.

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            #853085
            TyTy
            Participant

              I managed to bleed out the rear passenger wheel and the front driver side wheel. The other two wheels bleed valves are stripped and would not brake loose. The brakes were bled 5-6 years ago and i imagine it happened then because they were worn down before I even tried.

              The brakes work much better after bleeding the two wheels. It doesnt feel like its at 100%, but still much better and the brake doesnt hit the floor. For example, if i slam on the brakes it doesnt go into skid mode, but stopps quickly.

              Should I be overly concerned about driving the car still or should I service it more?

              #853090
              Nightflyr *Richard Kirshy
              Participant

                You pretty much answered your own question:
                You bled half the system and your pedal improved.
                If you bleed the entire system, you’ll solve your soft pedal.
                As to the stripped out bleeder valves…
                You might try a pair of vise grips to attempt loosen them.
                Might also consider getting a couple of replacement bleeders from the auto parts store if you get them to loosen up.

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