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All,
I was hoping to get some advice from the pros on there on things that I may have missed or need to review on my 1998 Honda CRV
The CRV has 202,000 miles on it and we have owned it most of its life. Its got the four cylinder, 2 liter, manual transmission.
Looking in my maintenance log:
I did the timing belt 40,000 miles ago (4 years ago) I did the water pump and all belts while I was at it, it ran great after this
I had an injector die on me 20,000 miles ago (2 years ago) I replaced all four injectors with brand new beck injectors
In the last year, during the summer the car would have trouble starting, it will start but turns over a couple of times before it fires. When it fires, sometimes you can tell its missing on one or two cylinders for … 5-10 seconds and then smooths out, and then runs great.
This problem seems to be much worse when its hot, during the summer, and when the engine is warm. We were experiencing these problems last summer, then the car ran great all winter, and now that its getting hot out again the problem seem to have returned.
Last summer and this summer, I have done quite a bit of testing, changed parts, etc… without a lot of luck. Here is what I have done recently:
Adusted the valves, found one exhaust valve was tight (.003″) the others were one or two thousands too tight. The intakes were almost spot on. I adjusted all of the exausts to .008″ and double and triple checked them.
I have done a compression test, got right around 115 PSI in all cylinders.
Brand new fuel pump (entire assembly inside the fuel tank) Checked fuel pressure and I believe I got 33 PSI or so, it was within spec of my chilton service manual. I used a vacuum pump and was able to see the fuel pressure drop accordingly as it should.
Replaced the PCV valve with a new one
Replaced cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs. All of these did not look bad but I changed them regardless.
I tested the coil per the chilton manual using ohm meter and it tested within spec, I do have a brand new one but did not change it.
The main fuel relay, I pulled this, tested it, looks and tested good. Regardless I resoldered the board.
All of this, no luck.
So … I threw in the towel and took it to the local honda dealer ship for a diagnosis, $110 later I got a report fuel injector #2 is intermittently not working. Either bad injector or bad ECM module. So I bought four brand new injectors (again) and got them installed last night. Ran it today and it feels like its running better, it don’t notice it missing anymore but it still is a little hessitant to start. I remember it would start within a second or two of hitting the starter. Now, it seems to take 4 or 5 seconds and then it feels like it starts running.
Based on these facts … what else would you recommend looking at, testing, replacing, etc…
I was debating on getting a used ECM off of ebay and swapping it out to see what happens. Also the Honda shop reccomended replacing the fuel temperature guage for the computer, I got the part but have not replaced it yet.
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Just spit balling here…
Considering the parts fired at this engine and still no improvement …
Have you looked at:
The throttle body for being dirty?
Checking and/or replacing the MAP sensor?
Checking and/or replacing the IAC?Also check for possible vacuum leak.
Thank you for the pointers nightflyer!
To answer your questions:
Throttle body being dirty, I have wondered this, what portion would I need to disassemble and clean? The portion that has the throttle plate/butterfly or the entire intake manifold assembly? and no, I have not taken either one of these parts apart to clean.
MAP sensor – I have tested this fairly thoroughly and it tests very close to what it should be. I didn’t think these are very common failure items and it tests very close to specifications.
TPS sensor – I have tested this thoroughly using the ODB2 scanner and an ohm meter while pushing the throttle and found it tests perfectly within specifications.
The IAC – I have not tested this and don’t fully understand how it works or how to test it, thanks for the suggestion, I will look more into this.
I have checked for vacuum leaks pretty thoroughly, I got a smoke generator with mineral oil I used and tested every host on the intake manifold and did not find any leaks. I again tested this with a small handheld vacuum pump and confirmed everything looks good.
Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.
[color=red]Throttle body being dirty, I have wondered this, what portion would I need to disassemble and clean? The portion that has the throttle plate/butterfly or the entire intake manifold assembly? and no, I have not taken either one of these parts apart to clean.
[/color]I would suggest you do not disassemble the throttle body.
Best to use the proper solvent and a tooth brush and clean lint free rag to clean the butterfly plate and throat.
There are videos on You Tube that can show the correct way to clean it.I got some throttle body cleaner last night and cleaned the throttle body plate. I ended it taking it off the car along with the Idle Air Control Valve and both were pretty dirty. The screen on the IAC was about 1/2 carboned up so no air, or very little would pass. Cleaned it all up the best I could with the cleaner and a handful of rags. Started it and, it seems to start better but now is idling around 500 RPM or so. If I turn on the AC it seems to almost kill the motor at idle. I only ran it for a minute or two last night in the garage, will be driving it today.
How do I go about checking the IAC valve? I tinkered with a bit and was trying to figure out if its stuck or is sliding freely, I didn’t want to break anything so I was fairly gentle and got a new IAC ordered last night.
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