1998 jeep cherokee

I agree with jacobnbr1. My question to you is this: is the inborad pad worn more than the outboard pad, or is it the other way around? If the outboard pad is worn more than the inboard pad, that tends to point to sticking caliper slides as opposed to sticking caliper pistons. The fix for sticking slides is to get them apart, re-lube them and reassemble. You may need a hot-wrench for this, aka an Oxy-acetylene cutting torch. If the inboard pad is worn down to nothing and the outboard pad is still thick (comparatively speaking), I’d think it was the calipers sticking, rather than the slide pins. As jacobnbr1 suggsted, get a pair of loaded calipers and replace them in pairs.

But 3SheetsDiesel, I can hear you saying, only the one side is sticking, why should I replace both of them. That’s easy. They’re both the same age, and have been subjected to the same amount of use/abuse and they are the same age. How much longer is the other one going to last? Also, you want the braking force to be even on both sides, otherwise the truck is liable to change lanes on you under braking (don’t ask me how I know this, just take my word for it), so what you do to one side, you should do to the other side as well. I use this same justification/arguement/whatever you decide to call it when I’m recommending ball joints, or shock absorbers/struts, or what have you. I mean, yes, you can replace just one side if you so wish. If you’re doing the work yourself, I’m presuming am ameture level of experience, one side R&I, with a bleed will probably take you round about 2 hours from start to finish. Let’s say that you only do the one side, and next week, the other side goes out on you. Now, you’ve got to make another run to teh parts store, then lift the truck back up, put the jack-stands back under it, pull the wheels back off, replace the faulty part, bleed everything again, put it all back together and on the ground and then road-test it again. I’d much rather get it all done at the same time. One othe rword of advice, if it does turn out to need calipers, don’t over-tighten the bolt that holds the brake line to the caliper and make sure that you use new crush washers. The banjo-bolt (the one that holds the brake hose to teh caliper) is holoow, and can be sheared off with hand-pressure. Again, don’t ask me how I know this, jsut take my word for it.

I also recommend starting with a good inspection by pulling it all apart and having a look at the slides and pads. Here is a video I did on rear disc brake pad replacement, don’t worry about the pad replacement part but the way to treat the caliper and pads will help if things are not moving properly. I can’t stress enough how important the silicone paste is. Lastly if you can’t compress or turn the piston it it could be that the caliper itself needs to be replaced.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kf8C4Qxu-A