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Replaced sensor.
Fluid level is good, no leaks that I can see or indicated by level.
Clean fluid from what I can tell.
Code still present after unhooking negative battery terminal.It seems to be upping the idle speed already. Perhaps I needed to bleed it longer, or wait for drive cycle to clear it? I’m kinda out of ideas now. I did this in a rush out in the rain (east coast here) on the gf’s car. And it’s possible the replacement switch itself was defective..
EDIT: found the service manuals with the wiring diagrams online, just a N/O switch that closes to ground when the right pressure level is there.
From the groaning the pump is doing my guess is that the pump itself is just on the way out, but I wish to be further on the hypothesis side rather than guess since this seems to be the 95% or better usual fix(switch) for this issue. Quite possible the car just hasn’t figured out that it’s fixed yet.Lists 94k on the dash, it “could” be 194k, seems a bit silly that a digital readout wouldn’t list past 99,999 but from all the driving she does with it, 94k just doesn’t track as right in 12 years.
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Afraid not. I don’t have access to a generic reader to clear. Will this not simply reset after a long enough drive cycle rather than having to spend $50 on one for this purpose?
The code should reset, but it usually takes quite a few drive cycles.
Is there ATF+4 in the power steering system, or is it regular power steering fluid?
It probably will reset itself. I use a Snap On MT2500 to reset my 1996 and 1998 Neons when I fix a problem and a lot more. Don’t waste your money on a cheap code reader just to resset a code. I bought a cheap one and sold it and got a good one that I can control the vehicle with to do testing.
I already have an SCT X3 tuner for my own car, and an older usb ODBLink I mounted in my dash for the car, using the PC version of dashcommand.
I was thinking more along the lines of an odblink-mx, or just an Innova 3160, possibly a EQUUS 31703 if I want to get just about all I can out of one of these units without needing a bank loan… Other than being stuck with 1996+ ODB-II compliant vehicles only, I’m not seeing much benefit to the older MT2500 over a $300 or less unit. I’d like to get one that can activate sensors and such, but that’s just money I don’t have.
I’d love to see a good thread on comparison shopping for these, as it is often times vague as to what they can specifically do from manufacturer to manufacturer.
As to the power steering fluid used. Unknown. It’s not been touched, certainly not by her, and I only lost a thimbleful when I changed out the sensor(did so quickly), so there was no need to add more.
Gotcha gotcha. The reason why I ask is because if you run the wrong fluid in it for an extended period of time, it will cause p/s pump failure. Was the pump making noise before you replaced the switch?
EDIT: If it needs to be bled, even though a small amount of fluid leaked out, you would see bubbles inside the reservoir. Move the steering wheel from lock to lock, turn the car off, and open the cap to see if there are a bunch of bubbles. Like if you blew into a straw while it was in a cup of milk or something (the bubble will be a lot smaller though lol).
there were none(bubbles), bleeding for this is basically just working the steering wheel back and forth completely from my understanding. Everything seemed relatively fine for what it is, and the abuse it has taken..
I did not note anything truly excessive as I got her to turn the wheel while I listened directly to the pump. Squealed a few times before I changed the switch, but seemed fine after. straining at the extremes, but seemed to up the idle most times.
Realistically the car needs about 3x’s what it’s actually worth in parts to bring it back to par. I’ve already done quite a bit to keep it on the road for her, starter, some basic and advanced tune-up work, brakes, re-wiring main cables due to corrosion, etc.. But it’s been hard beat-on with just the basic usual maintenance work performed before me, shocks, struts, bushings, engine mounts, and likely at least one wheel bearing set from what I heard on the last drive. It’s a squeak and clunk fest-mobile.
I suppose to be sure, I could trace that line back to the PCM, tap it, checking continuity to ground when the steering wheel is turned to the extreme again, see if it closes. If it doesn’t, either the replacement switch is faulty, or there isn’t enough pressure being put on it to make it switch, in which case the pump would be the likely problem. Just doesn’t seem that likely(bad pump) since it seemed to be doing its job ok.
Haha yeah, that’s why I asked if you saw bubbles if you were to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (turning the steering wheel to each extreme). Yeah, I wouldn’t replace the pump until it’s completely out. It’s not like you have a choice right now with the storm anyway haha.
I’m sure you’d be able to find a wiring diagram for that switch to the ecu, that way you wouldn’t have to dig around the harness.
Yeah, found the service manuals online that someone hosted including wiring diagrams. White 20gauge wire going to pin 45 on the second PCM connector.
I have little to add here really because it sounds like you have your testing worked out and you’ve already covered the possibility of air in the system. I’d also be checking the wiring and if possible see if you can get your hands on a scanner capable of reading what the computer sees from that sensor.
Only took about 4 hrs of drive-time (on the road) to get the drive-cycle(s) required.:blink: But it did finally clear it on it’s own, last night for her. So the clunker clunks on..
Still workin’ fine, she’d text me quick otherwise, so I can say with confidence now that’s a fix. Just took an insanely long time for the PCM/ECU to figure it out. Had to be over 4hrs on the road driving time at the minimum.
I will try to get a video on the engine itself later though, as I could use further pinpointing as to why it’s so rough at idle. My guess is IAC motor(forgot to clean that when I did a tune-up before) in combination with engine mounts and in dire need of a valve adjustment, but a video and a new thread would probably be the way to go as it’s “odd”. 😉 Still good overall pickup power for it’s 4cyl engine, so hopefully not bearings or the like.
I had some codes on my neon also and it will be quite a while before it resets!
I just went to parts source and they have a scan tool they let you use in the parking lot to test and clean the codes. Try to see your local parts store to see if they offer that service free of charge.They do not. Most places do not loan those, nor clear. They will scan and give you the codes, but they will not clear. People will clear the codes to get it through inspection, sell, etc.. Too much of a liability for any large chain store. I assume that guy likely did it for you as you got chummy enough, or he simply didn’t care as that’s a fairly standard policy.
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