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Hello to all, a friend of mine has a 2001 Kia Carnival (also known as Kia Sedona ) with a 2.9 liters turbodiesel engine and an automatic transmission.
The problem is that this morning the car doesn’t want to shift into reverse, so he asked me for advice.
Other than telling him to check for correct fluid level in the transmission I have no clue.
Also, I don’t know if the fluid level has to be checked with the engine running or not; does anyone know the correct procedure?Thank you for your attention and any advice you may give me! :cheer:
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
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Has the check engine or trans light come on? When
was the last fluid change? The owners manual will
give you the proper way to check the trans fluid.
see if any cables are off or broken.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
If the transmission is the same as a Sedona I think it’s ready for a rebuild. I have seen several of them go for a crap. I would have a professional give an opinion.
Hi, I’ve had to recover a pdf copy of the owner’s manual since my friend doesn’t seem to have one.
So the fluid has to be checked with the engine running, and as usual the dipstick has two ranges, one for the cold fluid (around 25 °C) and one other for the hot fluid (around 75 °C)Also, from the manual I discovered it takes a little more than 2 quarts of Diamond SP III fluid (something like Dexron III)
The problem is the car (and my friend) are quite far, 120Kms from here, I hope he can manage to do the check 😉
Also, he didn’t mention any check light on the dash, but it could be the bulb is gone :silly:
Let’s hope for the best!
Thank you and good evening. 🙂
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
[quote=”wysetech” post=74796]If the transmission is the same as a Sedona I think it’s ready for a rebuild. I have seen several of them go for a crap. I would have a professional give an opinion.[/quote]
That’s my fear too, but since I know he’s broke I really hope some missing fluid is all the problem here.
I have to say that I remember some years ago he found the car with a puddle of oil under, and he brought it to his “trusty” mechanic which overfilled the transmission and it almost blew the cooling radiator hoses :blink:
As a matter of fact I’m surprised that car hasn’t broken down then…
Let’s hope for the best! 😉
Thanks for your input anyway
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
[quote=”college man” post=74805]keep us posted 10Nico. :)[/quote]
Hello again , I have some news.
My friend has checked the fluid and its at the proper level.
Then the van has been brought to two different technicians and both said the transmission need some overhaul done.
In the meantime I managed to get the service manual for the van, and it says what follows (which for me is about like chinese 😆 )
[i]If the vehicle does not reverse when the selector lever is shifted from N to R range while the engine is idling, the cause is probably abnormal pressure in the reverse clutch or low and reverse brake or a malfunction of the reverse clutch, low and reverse brake or valve body.
It could be either:
– Abnormal reverse clutch pressure
– Abnormal low and reverse brake pressure
– Malfunction of the low and reverse brake solenoid valve
– Malfunction of the reverse clutch
– Malfunction of the low and reverse brake
– Malfunction of the valve body[/i]As for the valve body I know what it is, I’ve seen it in Eric’s “Automatic transmission dissection” video; it’s that part just above the oil pan that seems like an “ant nest” :blink:
As for the “reverse clutch” I think it’s one of those motorcycle-like clutches inside the transmission; the pressure, I guess, it refers to the oil pressure that should engage it, am I right?
The “low and reverse brake solenoid valve”, should be something that engages both the reverse brake (??) and the low gears mechanism, right? :blink:
And of course the “low and reverse brake” should be…ehm…a brake? What kind of brake? Not like a disc brake I guess.
So as you can see I’m in a puddle of guck 😆
What could be the most likely cause, in your experience?
If I was there I’d probably try a fluid change and maybe some reconditioner, just as Eric did with the subaru and the odyssey, but, gosh, I’m not there and have no control on that van’s destiny 🙁
Also, I’ve seen that , besides the (probably broken) lamp on the dash, there is a connector for a diagnostic tool (of course proprietary :angry: ) and also a manual procedure of shorting out two pins and counting the blinks of the (broken 😆 ) dash lamp.
….
What a mess :side:
Thank you again for your attention and your help 🙂
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
Honestly, automatic transmission work is best left to the professionals. You may find once you get in there that you don’t have the necessary tools to do the job and they may be expensive. Given the age of the vehicle it doesn’t make sense to go in just to repair the reverse problem. It makes more sense to overhaul it or better yet just replace it with a reman.
Good luck and keep us posted.
At this point, I would drop the pan to see if there is any signs of internal damage, like chunks or major shavings in the oil. This however, is not a guarantee. It could look clean, but still have internal wear. Wasn’t long ago I had an old aerostar with the famous hunk of junk (A4LD) transmission. No reverse, pan and fluid clean, it at times tried, but couldn’t do it. Road tests proved all other gears and shifts were normal. Dug into it, and found that a thrust washer was ground down harshly. Replaced the high reverse drum and the washer, and voila, done deal, everything else was within (kinda) specs. This was at or just before the electronic stuff started to appear. In your case, it could be a solonoid or a loose connector, I would check these as well. If the fluid is clean, and you drop the pan, change the filter anyway, go ahead and put the clean old fluid back in, filter through a coffee filter if you want, it can’t hurt it more. And definately make sure those solonoids are working. Sorry for rambling.
[quote=”shaun” post=75367]At this point, I would drop the pan to see if there is any signs of internal damage, like chunks or major shavings in the oil. This however, is not a guarantee. It could look clean, but still have internal wear. Wasn’t long ago I had an old aerostar with the famous hunk of junk (A4LD) transmission. No reverse, pan and fluid clean, it at times tried, but couldn’t do it. Road tests proved all other gears and shifts were normal. Dug into it, and found that a thrust washer was ground down harshly. Replaced the high reverse drum and the washer, and voila, done deal, everything else was within (kinda) specs. This was at or just before the electronic stuff started to appear. In your case, it could be a solonoid or a loose connector, I would check these as well. If the fluid is clean, and you drop the pan, change the filter anyway, go ahead and put the clean old fluid back in, filter through a coffee filter if you want, it can’t hurt it more. And definately make sure those solonoids are working. Sorry for rambling.[/quote]
Your input is very interesting, thank you Shaun 🙂
I hope the solution for their problem is as simple as yours 😉
And, by the way, thank you for the “coffee filter” tip, I had never thought about that, very interesting!
I could use it on my Citroen BX suspension oil, which, I have learned does not deteriorate as, for example, brake fluid, and can be filtered.Thanks! :cheer:
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
Wow, those are some pretty strict laws. I’m wondering if it will come to that in the US at some point. Keep us posted on their progress. It would be nice to know how it works out.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=75815]Wow, those are some pretty strict laws. I’m wondering if it will come to that in the US at some point. Keep us posted on their progress. It would be nice to know how it works out.[/quote]
Yes they are, but I think they are mostly made to force people to change their cars to fuel our languishing car industry :angry:
By the way, this law is not italy-wide, but only lombardy-wide, and is valid only in the winter months, when the smog and PM10 problems become more serious here.
If only they’d put the same attention to boilers and house-heating equipment (which produce LOTS of smog!!)…
BAH! :SAs for the car, today, when I was already starting to think the van was going to become a cube :sick: , my friend asked me if there is a serviceable filter for the transmission.
I checked, but there isn’t, but I also said him that, since there is a transmission-fluid radiator in that car, he could (as you Eric did with your Odyssey 🙂 ) put an inline trasmission filter in the rubber hoses that go to the radiator itself.Let’s hope for the best!
By the way, if I was him, and had to purchase another car, I’d chose a lighter one with dual fuel, gasoline and GPL (LPG in US); for some strange reason our laws don’t seem to afflict gas-running engines so much as diesels.
My 1995 citroen AX is only Euro2 but still can circulate all year , and so do Euro1 gasoline cars…
It seems they only want to reduce PM10 and particulates, such as those produced by diesels…….BAH (again! 😆 )
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
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