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I have 2004 ford Escape 3.0. At 62K the fuel pump went out, just stopped pumping. I replaced it with a Motorcraft pump and all was well for 2 months, then that pump quit, so I replaced it again. Now it’s 2 months later and the 3rd pump has quit. The question is, is this just a bad coincidence or is there another reason for all these failures that I should be looking for? My fuses, relays and wiring seem to be ok and the car has been babied since new, including being garaged and never off road. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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You need to perform a voltage drop test on the circuits as follows:
Fuel System Troubleshooting and Electrical ChecksThe ProblemFuel system repairs are often performed without proper diagnosis, leading to unneeded parts and the inconvenience of doing a complex repair that does not fix the vehicle problem.
The SolutionBasic fuel system troubleshooting and diagnosis can be accomplished with a digital voltmeter and some knowledge of vehicle electrical systems. This bulletin provides some guidelines for system electrical tests.
System Components to Check FirstIf the vehicle will not start, check the following:I’m with Jacob on the voltage drop test but I was also wondering how you determined that the pumps were bad, did you check to see if they had power and ground at the connector going to them? If not the pumps might not have been the problem all along. Also if you have a lot of sedement in the tank this will also cause premature failure. Lastly make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations when doing the install, there might be an issue there that you might not be aware of.
Do you have any way of checking to see how much current the pump is drawing? Excessive current draw could be leading to premature pump failures.
I did voltage test on the on the pump circuit and did have voltage, I don’t remember the reading now. I didn’t know about the voltage drop test and I’m not sure how to access the pins on the pump with the connectors together. The tank is very clean inside so sediment is not an issue. Here’s a new wrinkle, the pump started working again today, so I’m thinking you are on the right track, it’s not the pump at all. I’ve tried to check all the connections and grounds and used a scan tool and have no codes set. I’m going to check some more tomorrow but I don’t have near the expertise that you guys do and may have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer. Anyway thanks a lot for the help!
I just use sewing T-Pins to probe connectors when doing voltage tests. Jacob pasted all the info you needed to do the tests. Just take your time and im sure you will find the issues.
Electrical issues are always the most intimidating at first 🙂
I don’t have a meter to measure current, but that sounds like a good thought too. Or is it possible that they pump is running too much? Anyway I’m going to try the drop test if I can access the wires. Thanks again!
It sounds like you might have an intermittent break in the wiring or connections leading down to the pump. When you replaced the previous pumps maybe the moving of the wires temporarily restored your connection? Next time the pump stops maybe you do a resistance check with a DVM to see if you see the coil resistance of the pump through the wire harness from the start.
I did another voltage test at the pump harness and came up with a steady 6.65 volts. I also tried to do the voltage drop test but couldn’t establish continuity through the connector, I’ll try again tomorrow. As far as a break in a wire, I’ve looked at that, but it’s not obvious if that is the problem .Since it’s running again, maybe I should start it and then mess with the wiring to see if it dies.
6.65? Was the battery dead or weak? Let me see something… Nope! This car does not have an external pump driver and should be battery voltage of whatever the battery storage is minus the load itself.
You should have battery voltage meaning if you check the battery and it has 12.4 your pump voltage should be the same or close to it. 1/2 a volt less is the start of a problem somewhere.
Make sure you run a test lead directly from the battery to the tester (make sure the lead is good as well) so if you are checking the pos side of the pump circuit then you need to run your lead from the negative side of the battery post thus checking the pos voltage and so on for the ground side.Note: take a reading from the battery alone with the pump energized and note that voltage reading as it is, and when you check the pump circuit it should be close to the battery voltage.
I do this test all the time without doing the voltage drop thing but I have the trained eye to determine if a voltage drop should be performed.
I have commonly seen after market alarms with immobilizer systems cause this very issue as they normally interrupt the fuel pump circuit and now the immobilizer alarm box now becomes part of the circuit.(They suck)
Did you look online for some wiring diagrams?, and don’t forget another forum member posted a link to free Chilton’s online too in another thread.
Yes, looked for wiring diagrams, couldn’t find any on the fuel pump circuit. I did find a semi loose ground for the alarm, under the dash. If the fuel pump is shut down by the alarm, then maybe that ground was the problem. The car never quit on me after it was running, just wouldn’t pump the fuel on start up.
What is the name and model of that alarm? (That alarm isn’t doing a better job than the factory system does) I posted a diagram above.
Thanks much to jacobnbr1 for the wiring diagram, that makes things a little easier. If I’m reading it right, I am on the right wires with the black and pink black. So I think my 6.65 volt reading is correct. I was originally thinking that voltage could be variable through the PCM. I need to do the drop test and other tests jacobnbr1 suggested and see what I come up with. Answering some of the back posts, I have 12.5 volts on the battery and have switched relays to known good ones. Thanks for sticking with me guys!
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