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Hello all,
I have a 2004 Honda Accord with a recently installed used engine. The car ran fine for about 1000 miles and then started experiencing some major electrical issues. Battery is about 1 year old and alternator was tested good last fall at Auto Zone. Car has sat since December as there has been no need for it. I’m now trying to get it running as it’s become a driveway eyesore. The car drives fine until the gauges start going wacky and then the car starts to run crappy until it dies. Todays experience……….charged battery fully to 12.68 volts. took for a test drive for about 5 minutes. Batt. was 11.10v (car running) after test drive. Batt. read 11.63 after shutting engine off. Upon start up, batt. light stayed on for 6 seconds, and there was a relay clicking sound. The relay clicking sound and even flashing marker lights have been occurring since this problem started. The car does have a remote starter installed, which may have something to do with the relay clicking/flashing marker lights (just a guess). Anyway, if I didn’t have the alternator tested last fall, I’d say it needs replacing. All connections are clean and secure. Could this be the computer failing?
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I would probably start by checking battery, ground, and alternator connections. If all are clean and tight, no corrosion etc, then I would test the alternator. If the alternator is working properly, and there are no bad connections, you should never see 11 volts with the engine running.
Thank you nightflyr. I did some research on the ELD module and I’m wondering if a failure would absolutely cause a code? The CEL has not been on during this issue.
Thanks Tomh. All connections are good, clean, and sound. I did replace the engine & trans. ground straps.
Thank you nightflyr. I did some research on the ELD module and I’m wondering if a failure would absolutely cause a code? The CEL has not been on during this issue.
This ELD allows theECM/PCM to regulate the alternator (switch it between high output and low output) to provide the best combination of fuel economy and electrical system operation.
The ELD sends a signal to the ECM/PCM that’s proportional to the electrical demand.
The ECM/PCM switches the alternator between high output and low output depending on several factors, which include electrical demand,
battery charge level, and the driving cycle.
When the alternator is in low output, the engine load is reduced and fuel economy improves.
Is it possible to have a faulty ELD and no CEL ….
Anything is possible given the proper conditions.But considering what you have stated, I would check:
There should be a fuse in the inside fuse block that feeds the voltage regulator from the alternator to the battery through the ELD. if it is blown the alternator will not charge.
I would have the alternator tested to confirm its operation.
Next would be to confirm the ECM is signaling the ELD correctlyAlternator tested good as well as all applicable fuses. Next, I decided to try removing the under hood fuse/relay block. I wanted to identify the 3 ELD wires and plan my next move. To my surprise, one of the battery cables (nearest to front end) in the fuse block was loose. Not wiggling around loose but, loose enough to cause an issue. I guess I got a little sloppy in the final stages of the engine install. Anyway, this all points to what you guys and Eric stress…..check check check ALL the connections. Those particular connections were out of sight and out of mind but, the wiring diagrams told me they were there…..Lesson learned.
Bad news…Wife just told me the CEL came on on her way home from work……..Back to work I go.
Thanks again for your assistance!
Fixed CEL issues (vacuum hose came loose) and car ran fine for approx. 8 trips around town. Yesterday wife was leaving work and car would not start….no clicking, cranking, power at all. I jumped it and it started just fine. We started driving home and I noticed the red air bag light on the right side of dash was on, after about a half mile. The CEL came on next, which is when I pulled into a parking lot. I idled for 2 minutes and then drove around lot trying to get it to die with no luck. I then proceeded to drive to another lot where the car stalled before I could get into a parking spot. The air bag light and CEL light were on and the gauge cluster died. Car would not crank, click, or anything else….no power at all. I Immediately jumped it and it started right up. I then drove it slowly back to the wife s office and left it for the night. Battery and alternator test good. All high current connections under hood look good and i have replaced then engine and transmission ground straps. What should I troubleshoot next? Ignition switch? Main relay? Thanks in advance..
The vehicle has no power at all?
Meaning even when the ignition is in the on position, no dash lights, fuel pump operation etc.
Accessory position has no power either… no radio.
Do the headlights still function when this occurs?
Might be looking at a faulty ignition switch under those circumstances.No power at all. Does not chime with key in ignition after it dies, until it gets jumped. Maddening!
Hmmmm… no door chimes with the key in the ignition …
May be looking at a faulty / intermediate ignition switch.Might try just for giggles… when it is DOA, try working the key in and out and through its cycles in the ignition.
See if there is a bad contact.Got it home with no problems. I did not mention that I had trickle charged the battery for most of today. The drive was about 20 minutes and I took it about as easy as I could. I will have to try to make it fail, probably early Sunday morning, when traffic is very light. I will post more after the test drive.
Got the test drive in today with no issues. I drove for and hour locally, stopping the engine and restarting several times. Once I felt comfortable, I started to manipulate the key, back and forth, in and out. I also drove for a while with max A/C, rear defroster, headlights, and radio on. Previously, the car has run succesfully for several trips, only to stall when I start to believe it’s fixed. Therefore I’ll keep my confidence in check for at least a week of driving. On a side note, I successfully changed the timing belt, water pump, adjuster, tensioner, idler pulley, and coolant on our Pilot yesterday. Wasn’t pretty but, it’s back running. I will update shortly, hopefully with good news.
Drove the car for several short to medium trips over the last 10 days or so with no issues. Today, was a different story. My wife notified me that she was heading out for lunch and upon starting the car, she noticed the CEL and that damn air bag light were on. Thinking about the patterns of the car running good for awhile and then stalling out again, I realized that the car ran best after the battery had been disconnected for a period of time. I drove by her work place to disconnect the neg. cable and, to make sure she could reconnect and tighten securely after work. It was disconnected for 2.5 hours and she drove home (4 miles) with no CEL or air bag light. I’m starting to think that this issue is related to drive cycles. Has anyone heard of such a thing? I don’t have the exact mileage for when the stalling occurred each of the 3 times, after it had been running fine. I’d say the amount of driving/miles were pretty similar those 3 times though. This hunch leads me to believe that I’m dealing with a faulty ECM.
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