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Hey Guys, I am trying to help a friend with her 04 2.2L Saturn Ion. She told me her brakes were grinding but they were only replaced about a yr. ago. I pulled off the wheel (pass. side) and noticed that the inboard pad was worn down to the metal backing and the rotor was gouged. The outboard pad was fine (plenty of pad material left for at least another yr.) The piston easily pushed back into the caliper without any difficulty using a C-clamp. The only thing I noticed was a tiny side to side play in the piston. There was also a puncture in the rubber boot seal, but there was no binding in the piston. The caliper pins were also free “slid in and out”. I guess I will replace the pads, rotors, and calipers. I am just not too sure as to why this happened. when i see brake pads in that condition the pins are usually seized or have no grease. Can anyone give me an understanding as to what happened? I am going to order parts tommorrow and put them on at night. Thanks.
Driveway Al
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Replace all the rubber seals/boots, then clean and re grease the slide pins.
After that and your new rotors and pads you should be ok.I would also look at the flexible brake hose and and make sure there is no signs of kinks or bulges. Any kinks or signs of bulges will restrict the brake fluid after the brake pedal has been released causing the caliper piston to stick.
To go along with Dreamer, did you check both sides? Were they both the same? I’m only wondering if one of the cup seals in the master cylinder could be distorted.
Quoted From Beefy:
To go along with Dreamer, did you check both sides? Were they both the same? I’m only wondering if one of the cup seals in the master cylinder could be distorted.
Yeah, only the pass. inboard pad was worn. It just seems strange why it would only be the inner pad and not the outer pad to. I had my wife step on the brake and I watched it release each time. Maybe it only happens when the rotors are hot.
DrivewayAlThat is a classic indication of sticking caliper slides. The ONLY lubricant that should be used is silicone paste as mixing lubricants will cause them to bind. I also lubricate the ends of the brake pads where they make contact with the the caliper. I cover how to service them in this video.
Perhaps everything was indeed freely moving and relaxing for the piston and caliper assembly.
What is the possibility the the pads were new and installed on a rotor with a gouged inboard surface from earlier metal on metal mishaps? If the outboard rotor surface is pretty good, pad wear will be near a normal rate. But if the inboard rotor surface is over-rough, it will carve the pad down pretty quickly.
You would have to know the history of the situation to decide.
Great posts everyone. In addition to the above, ensure that the brake pad fits snug (but not too tight) into the hardware on the caliper. Not all brake pads are made equally well. Some brake pads have a tad bit excess metal on either end, and can brind in the caliper from the start. I made that mistake once on my wife’s car. I experienced the same conditions above, where one of the inner brake pads wore out in less than a year. Good luck and keep us posted.
Quoted From BigC:
Great posts everyone. In addition to the above, ensure that the brake pad fits snug (but not too tight) into the hardware on the caliper. Not all brake pads are made equally well. Some brake pads have a tad bit excess metal on either end, and can brind in the caliper from the start. I made that mistake once on my wife’s car. I experienced the same conditions above, where one of the inner brake pads wore out in less than a year. Good luck and keep us posted.
Good point. Especially on rear pads I sometimes even grind a little off of the pad to make them fit better before installing them if they feel too tight.
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