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Hi I got a Honda cr v and my catalytic converter is incomplete mode, everything is all ready only the cat. I have no check engine code. I replaced my upstream and downstream sensor and my cat and still not ready. one of the shop say the shop that replaced the cat give me a bad cat because he say my sensor1 bank 2 voltage keep going up and down when holding at 2.5k rpm and he say it should be a straight line because it means there’s no oxygen. is he right? because I will have to go to the shop that replaced my cat to replace a new one if this one defective.
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[quote=”richard203″ post=173469]Hi I got a Honda cr v and my catalytic converter is incomplete mode, everything is all ready only the cat. I have no check engine code. I replaced my upstream and downstream sensor and my cat and still not ready. one of the shop say the shop that replaced the cat give me a bad cat because he say my sensor1 bank 2 voltage keep going up and down when holding at 2.5k rpm and he say it should be a straight line because it means there’s no oxygen. is he right? because I will have to go to the shop that replaced my cat to replace a new one if this one defective.[/quote]
the o2 sencors will go up and down… really will they be a flat lineyou can watch the whole video but at that part he shows what the graph will look like
the cat is the last thing to get finished might take like 40 mins of driving before its done… if you wantr to speedd it up drive on the express way for like 25 mins and 25 mins on reg roadsI drove like 750 miles already. I think my car is a/f sensor. isn’t the o2 sensor bank2 going to be a flat line if your car is idle? when my car is idle my voltage keep going up n down. i’ll check again tomorrow and let u know.
ok heres the graph I got doing the testing.
RPM at 2,000 at idle
[URL=http://s563.photobucket.com/user/richard203/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-08-21-19-06-48.png.html][IMG]http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss71/richard203/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-08-21-19-06-48.png[/IMG][/URL]
Idle
[URL=http://s563.photobucket.com/user/richard203/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-08-21-19-10-17.png.html][IMG]http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss71/richard203/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-08-21-19-10-17.png[/IMG][/URL]
seems like in idle it is fine but when I rev to 2k rpm its not straight line and I thought it should be straight line with the top graph? im going to the shop that changed my cat to ask to replace it again and see. let me know is this normal or not.
Looks like you have the torque app. Try graphing different sensors, even the bank 2 sensors. My Ford reads the sensors as 1.1 & 2.1. You should see the upstream o2 switch and the rear o2 flat line. A/F we sensors should show different voltages but not two flat lines. That’s probably an issue with the data selection in the app rather than your vehicle.
[quote=”Timothy S” post=173536]Looks like you have the torque app. Try graphing different sensors, even the bank 2 sensors. My Ford reads the sensors as 1.1 & 2.1. You should see the upstream o2 switch and the rear o2 flat line. A/F we sensors should show different voltages but not two flat lines. That’s probably an issue with the data selection in the app rather than your vehicle.[/quote]
yes im using the torque app. its only letting me graph these sensor voltage, other sensor is greyed out.
Are they greyed out because it’s a feature your vehicle doesn’t have or because there’s absolutely no signal coming from that sensor?
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=173540]Are they greyed out because it’s a feature your vehicle doesn’t have or because there’s absolutely no signal coming from that sensor?[/quote]
I think its my car features that doesn’t have, I only got 1 af sensor and 1 o2 sensor for my car.
k I went back to the shop and they say its not a bad cat, and wont change a new one. im going to see the temperature in the cat mybe next week. any help with the reading?
Since there are no error codes try doing a drive cycle or two, to complete cat monitor.
Here is a typical Honda Accord drive cycle. Driving your Honda Accord in the manner below should make the required Emission Monitors “Ready”. Before you start the Drive Cycle make sure your Honda Accord’s fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4, otherwise the EVAP test won’t run. Make sure to obey all traffic laws while performing the drive cycle.
1. Begin by idling the engine while 2 1/2 minutes. Next idle for another 2 1/2 minutes with the A/C compressor and rear defroster on and while the transmission is in Drive (D); only of automatic transmission. This part of the drive cycle checks the oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge system.
2. Turn the A/C compressor off and rear window defroster off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and EVAP canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. The computer will now be testing the EGR system, air injection pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch). Once again the computer system will check EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system will look for misfires, fuel trim and EVAP purge.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for 5 minutes. Catalytic converter efficiency, EGR flow, ignition misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system and oxygen sensors operation will now be checked.
7. Decelerate to a stop without braking (or depressing clutch). The OBDII system will complete the drive cycle at this point.
We recommend completing this drive cycle at least twice in order to insure all required parameters have been met.
I tried that already. I just realize the part number on the cat is not compliable with my car, im going to call the guy again to see whats going on and what he can do.
k, so after so many miles, the things I have replaced thermostats, cat and upstream and down stream o2 sensor and my car still not ready for smog. any idea?
In case it helps someone else, I had the same issue on my 2006 CR-V. Replacing the coolant temp sensor and fan switch fixed the issue of my incomplete catalyst monitor. The sensors were good enough to not throw a code but off enough that the catalyst test would never initiate. Easy diy, total repair cost was under $100. I had run the “drive cycle” almost perfectly a bunch of times before replacing the sensors with no change. Once I replaced the sensors I literally only had to do one drive cycle and the test completed. Phew!
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