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2008 Buick Lacrosse Rear Suspension Torque specs

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This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Vlad2 Vlad2 1 year, 1 month ago.

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    Topic
  • #894138
    Vlad2
    Vlad2
    Participant

    I have the trailing arm bracket ready to go back on. The rest or the rear suspension will come off and back on tonight if everything goes right (it normally doesn’t).

    So I have all my torque specs but one has me perplexed.. the Trailing arm I have seen the following specs for.

    Trailing arm bracket to body – 40 ft lbs (the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the body)
    Trailing arm to bracket bolt – 77 ft lbs (this seems reasonable)
    Trailing arm to knuckle bolt – 177 ft lbs and I have seen – 52 ft lbs + 65 degrees) and also seen (66 ft lbs + 75 degrees)

    Which is it.

    I also am taking off the rear suspension support frame those bolts are 81 ft lbs (4 bolts) rear spindles (control arms) are 103 at the support frame and 110 at the knuckle

    strut is 33 at the top (connecting to the body) and 89 at the knuckle.

    Do all of these seem legit?

    I am really trying to figure out the trailing arm to knuckle spec.. that seems really high..

    Thanks for any help!
    Vlad

Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
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  • #894149
    none none
    none
    Participant

    I oil my impact and blast them down while pretending I haven’t seen my torque wrench in months. Better yet; What’s a torque wrench?

    OK OK. I pulled up specs in Identifix and it showed 55 lb ft. No torque angle specs either. But then I went into service info and found this:

    1. Install the trailing arm (3) to the trailing arm bracket.
    Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.

    2 . Install the bolt (7) and nut (4) to the trailing arm (3) and the trailing arm bracket.
    Tighten:

    Tighten the bolt and nut to 110 [n-m] (81 lb ft).

    3. Install the trailing arm (3) to the knuckle (8).
    4. Install the bolt (6) and nut (2) to the trailing arm (3) and the knuckle (8).
    Tighten:

    Tighten the nut to 240 [n-m] (177 lb ft).

    5. Lower the vehicle.

    I’d encourage you to run with 177 lb ft even though it does look like a steep spec if the bolt has an M14 or larger thread diameter. I find that Identifix will eff you over trusting specs they print in their specification menus. Pulling the specs straight off the service info like I posted above comes copied straight out of the factory manuals.

    I only put an effort into finding you that trailing arm to knuckle spec. The rest is up to you. One way or the next, I’d ignore any spec you found with a torque angle spec.

    Good luck.

    #894160
    Vlad2
    Vlad2
    Participant

    Thanks a ton! I got it all back together now I just need to torque it all down. Did a left rear wheel hub /bearing due to a bad wheel speed sensor and struts on both sides (they were shot, don’t buy unity (I know, no sh**)).

    AC Delco quick struts seem to be moogs and I pulled the part number off the a.c. delco strut and besides an AC Delco sticker, the bump stop and everything else matches as well as the part number stamped on the side.

    I’ll put the tires on and drop it onto 2 subaru rims (another project) layed down so I can get under it safely and torque everything down while it has weight on it so I don’t stress the new bushings.

    Thanks again!
    Vlad

    #894164
    Vlad2
    Vlad2
    Participant

    The impact is a great idea too. But I got one of those new Dewalt impacts and the medium setting could do it, but the high setting hits at the 500 ft.lbs. I haven’t gotten the feel for it yet, so….

    My torque wrench maxes at 150 ft/lbs. so I’ll give it to that and then 1 to 1.5 Unga Unga’s with a brearker bar.

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