Menu
  • Home
  • Topic
  • 2010 Honda Civic DX-G throttle body advice

2010 Honda Civic DX-G throttle body advice

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here 2010 Honda Civic DX-G throttle body advice

  • This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by MikeMike.
  • Creator
    Topic
  • #663516
    J .J.J.J.
    Participant

      Hi,
      My knowledge of cars is incredibly basic and I’m looking for some advice. I’ve searched through the forums and watched a number of videos before posting this.

      I’m driving a 2010 Civic DX-G, standard, 110,000 km (68,000 miles) and located in Canada.

      The situation: Recently, engine light went on, car went into limp mode. Got it to a mechanic and was told a code P2135-TP sensor showed incorrect voltage, but according to the mechanic it seemed like a glitch, reset systems said I should be good to go.

      Light was back on a day or two later, mechanic said I should get the car to a dealership, replacing throttle body can be expensive, see if it’s under warranty… it’s not of course, falls under emissions and air intake.

      Dealer mechanic pulled the same code, tests came back OK, wiring OK, and they updated the computer software. They said if the code returns I need to replace the throttle body for over $900 (CAN). Two weeks went by, it was cold one night, and now the light came back on and the car went back into limp mode. It’s been in and out of limp mode since then and CEL turned off once, but usally on.

      Just judging from what I’ve read online it seems weird to me that the TPS would go on a 5 year old vehicle.

      After watching some videos on ETCG I realized that prior to this happening the car had a fluctuating idle for awhile, where it would sit around 700 RPM, but then jump over 1000 for a moment and go back down. Thanks for putting up with this long winded post. My question is could an earlier idle problem as described by ETCG videos (air in cooling system, vacuum leaks, timing tension, over-heating, IAC and FI valve issues) somehow tricked the TPS code into turning on or should I just look into replacing the throttle body.

      Any info helps.

      Thanks!

    Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
    • Author
      Replies
    • #663520
      Matthew RossMatthew Ross
      Participant
        #663522
        J .J.J.J.
        Participant

          Thanks! I was looking at that manual earlier just trying to find where the throttle body is located. That’s how little I know about cars. I do know some people who would probably enjoy walking me through this whole process though.

          #663533
          MikeMike
          Participant

            Your fluctuating idle is likely a response to the TPS sensor failure. The TPS signal became abnormal, the computer started changing idle speed trying to make the data coming back from the TPS look normal, it couldn’t do that so it made the code and the CEL came on. It being a intermittent problem is nothing strange for a electrical part failure or a failure in it’s wiring.

            Your electronic throttle body has 2 redundant position sensors because the throttle is a super important part of the engine. The 2135 code means that the 2 throttle position sensors (TPS) are not showing the same reading at the same time. I’ve seen this code on other kinds of cars be caused by a wiring problem. I haven’t seen Honda wiring problems, so I’d be inclined to thing it’s a part failure, but it’s a complicated code to diagnose.

            In all honesty, a lot of mechanics are unable to perform the tests necessary to be 100% sure that it needs the Throttle and completely rule out a wiring or computer issue. If they can to it, it will cost you at least a few hundred bucks to pay them to do so. It’s at least 80% likely that the Throttle is the failure point, which can be determined in only a few minutes of professional research. If the shop isn’t asking you for big diagnosis money, then you are probably getting the 80% gamble on the part fixing it. It’s better than nothing and it’s common practice because it usually works. Like I said, having a real problem like yours but it testing ok the day it goes to the shop is aggravatingly normal and it’s usually a part as opposed to wiring.

          Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
          • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
          Loading…