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thanks for the pointers. I shorted that jumper under glove box, turned ignition to II position, and CEL was still steady, no flash at all. It is likely ECU went bad.
actually, I was glad he ECU could last for almost 20 years till now. I recalled it had water leak from wind shield to air blower. when rains, passenger side carpet got soaked for many year, and I did not even notice it. The ECU was directly under soaked carpet.
That does NOT mean the ECU is bad, it could be a blown fuse or wiring that is the problem. Come to think of it I don’t think you check for codes that way on that one because it’s so old, I think on that one you pull the carpet back and look through the window in the cover and count the flashes of the LED, sorry I didn’t mention that one before.
I’ve actually seen soaked ECU’s before come back if you just take the covers off and dry them out so you might want to try that. I would bet the water leak was not coming from the windshield but rather the plastic grommets that are located in the cowl above the wiper motor that leak into the blower assembly. But first see if all you have to do is turn the key to the on position to see the flashing red LED on the ECU.
Thanks again! yes, you are right. The water leak was from the plastic grommets that are located in the cowl above the wiper motor that leak into the blower assembly. I patched it.
OK. I will take a look at LED in the ECU window.
It was winter storm this week. anyhow, I took out the ECU, and it has 5 screws on top plate, and did not found LED.
Good news, I bought one used 93 integra LS M.T. ECU from EBay for $80, and it arrived last night. It is was same part number except is one year younger.
I swapped out ECU, and I could hear main replay clicking when it is on II position, then few second later, CEL went off, and heard another click on main relay. I was able to start the engine.
Problem fixes. Thanks for all your advice.
Still, I want to look into why my old ECU board not making main replay click.
It could have been an issue with the ignition switch as Honda ignition switches are famous for issues. It’s not the mechanical part that’s an issue but rather the electrical portion fastened to the back of it. You can sometimes ‘jiggle’ the key while the car is running and if the engine stalls or stumbles then it’s likely the electrical portion of the ignition switch is bad.
Thanks, I will keep it in mind since it is 20 year old car now. I drove it for a few days, and so far it is OK. I felt it has littler more horse power than before ECU swapping.
Last night, I pulled out passenger side carpet, and found the whole floor is wet. and touched the blower, and it is wet too. The water leak came back, I fixed it many year ago.
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