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Machine shops usually do clean the heads, but you have to clean it yourself as well. Make sure it is cleaned well. As for the stalling, I have no idea.
First of all, what vehicle are you working on and why was there machine work done to the heads? And any sign of a CEL?
Next time it stalls, you need to isolate if your missing fuel or spark. That will give you a good starting point and im going to assume you have that type of testing equipment already if your removing and installing cylinder heads?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
First of all, what vehicle are you working on and why was there machine work done to the heads? And any sign of a CEL?
Next time it stalls, you need to isolate if your missing fuel or spark. That will give you a good starting point and im going to assume you have that type of testing equipment already if your removing and installing cylinder heads?
The car is a 94 Acura Integra Ls model. Thats the problem, i’ve checked all the sums it could be that effect idle gas and spark?? What test equipment are you talking about? I am always swapping heads and building frankenstein motors, never had this problem.
The motor ran normal, pulled off head then head was ported and polished and also been decked and cleaned. Then it was re assembled and this problem happend.
My question i guess is what could it be…? FROM LOOKIN AT ALL NEW PARTS.. What ELSE could effect the spark and fuel?
1. I know it has compression because starts right up runs great and very smooth stock feeling.
2. I am sure timing is on because in my experience the car does not start right up and idle if its a tooth off or even on the pulley.
3. Does NOT throw any CEL!!!HELLLLLPP!? At this point im at a dead end… ETCG, i really need ur haallp! Haha =]
Anyone else had this problem? If it shut off right away i know its map or iacv most of the time easy fix, but this stays on for almost 30 seconds before it shuts off.
Sounds like a fuel pressure issue. The way it is behaving I would suspect the fuel filter and not the fuel pump. For that car they are about $20. If it has not been changed in recent memory or he does not know the vehicles maintenance history, I would say replace it and see if that does not fix the problem.
Be careful assuming that it is related to the recent head work. I might not necessarily be related. Without heating up the engine (block cold) start it up and let it die. before doing anything to it, loosen the banjo bolt at the fuel rail. Does gas spew? Does it trickle? It sounds like the car is shutting down for lack of fuel pressure. Injectors won’t fire below a certain pressure, so there may be some, but not enough.
edit: Sorry I see he has recently changed the fuel filter, as well as the pump. Still acts like a pressure problem. I don’t believe they had Schreader valves on the ’94’s, so one can not put a gauge on it, but you can measure volume or a specific time to test for pressure. 7.5 oz of fuel over a 30 second period if memory serves. I believe Eric gives the specifics in a video, but it has been a while.
Quoted From David Zitterich:
Test the Ignition switch and the PGM-Fi Main Relay circuits.
Half right, if the main relay was an issue they cause a ‘no start’ condition, I have rarely seen them cause an engine to stall, it’s kind of an ‘on’ ‘off’ proposition with main relays and they only effect fuel pressure from what I’ve seen not the ignition.
That said the next time you start the engine try giggeling the key in the ignition, if the engine stalls then you have a problem with the electrical portion of the ignition switch. You don’t need to replace the entire switch if you find that to be the problem just the white electrical part bolted to the back of it.
Interesting. Does that fuel tank not have a baffle?
Anyway, don’t forget to change the traffic light to “green” so it will help other who search the ETCG database C8-)
well.. a freind of mine had a similar issue to that in his 93 Nissan Skyline.. turned out that for some reason his Fuel pump overheats and stops working, then it works normally after it cools down..
he even swapped it with a new one and had the same problem.. ended up buying an aftermarket high performance fuel pump.. and issue was solved..
you could check the fuel pressure as its running tell it stops
Hello everyone! I FIGURED IT OUT and you might fall off your seat when you hear this…
So he told me he took of head, got machined, threw it back on and it ran like that. He changed all the parts i told him to on the list above and still nothing. I asked him more than once if it had fuel in the gas tank… He bought 3 gallons and put it in and still nothing… Turns out we put 5 more gallons in and it ran perfect and did not shut off!!
My conclusion – He was on a little hill in the drive port and im assuming the car did not sit flat enough.. And could not feed gas through the pump!
Thanks everyone on the forum for your ideas as they DID help me as always! You guys are awsome thanks ETCG! Untill next time, stayin dirty!! =]]
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