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Well I’m lost…
My van has about 252k miles. The first sign of trouble began pulling into the driveway. It died while my foot was off the gas pedal. It started back up but happened a few other times (over a few days, it would always stay running if the gas pedal was pressed) which led me to replacing the IAC motor/throttle body cleaning. After replacing the motor I moved it around my driveway, parked it and restarted it several times to test the idle out. Each time was great so I shut it off while I loaded it full of junk. While loading it I dumped in about 1/3 a can of seafoam in the gas tank. 15 mins later I tried to start it again but it would never start, cranks fine. So, I tested fuel pressure…ended up being low so I put a new pump in, pressure is good now. Still no start, so I’m chasing a spark issue. I get VERY intermintent spark to the coil/plugs. Sometimes it will fire a couple times and die. I checked inputs to the coil pack. ASD wire is hot while cranking and a few secs after. I see pulsing on the 3 coil drivers too. I grabbed a junkyard coil, but it does the samething. So here is where I’m totally confused…when the battery gets weak from all the cranking the spark improves drastically. I get a nice consistent spark jump off the coil and it almost starts.
Thank you for reading, and any help. I probably should have scapped it by now, considering I only paid $100 for it a year ago. However I feel like this is a good chance to improve my diagnostic skills, or lack of 😉
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Try spraying starter fluid to see if it starts. how much fuel was in
the tank with the sf? I have seen people add to much sf and cause a
no start. see if this helps.http://www.justanswer.com/car/0xkep-1996-plymouth-grand-voyager-3-3l-no-start-no-spark-does.html
It was added to an almost completely full tank. About a 1/3 of a can of Seafoam. I think the fuel issue is solved, since pressure is at 49psi now and injectors are pulsing.
I forgot to add that I was able to pull a couple codes:
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of rangeI tested inputs to the coil again and found the 3 coil drivers to be pulsing ground. While key is off/KOEO the ASD relay input is grounded (seems like it should be open…maybe a short to ground somewhere?). When cranking B+ is supplied.
check your tps signal.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrysler/2.0L-2.4L/how-to-test-the-tps-1
The wire (green/black) wire powers the coil pack as well as the O2 sensor heater. Try disconnecting the O2 sensor(s) and try to start. I believe the same wire also powers the fuel pump.
Those codes could cause a no start condition. I would troubleshoot those items first before you go further. I’d also check the wiring and connectors for those components for damage just to be on the save side. More info on no starts here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Quick update, I have tested a few things.
TPS: .8v to 3.8v, smooth throughout the range
ECTS: 4.95v
Cam: .11v-5v pulse
Crank: .06v-5v pulseEarlier I ran a jumper wire from the PCM to the ignition coil B+ to bypass everything else. I didn’t get a spark jumping off the coil pack but when I hooked my inline spark tester up it pulsed, dimly. It did this on all 3 of the front plugs. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like this wire also feeds the injectors B+.
My battery is tired from the cranking so I’ll let it sleep on the charger and play around more tomorrow.
Eric, (and everyone else) I really appreciate all the help. I love your videos and your desire to help others.
May be some help here. Check out my post on 96 Plymouth Voyager 2.4L no start. Posted about 1+ ago. Anyway,
the long and short of it. Turned out it was my Engine Computer Module was faulty. Replaced it with another
one and it was faulty as well. Replaced it again and that one worked. Weird thing is got no bad codes at all. It was the very last thing that ended up fixing the no start condition. Due to the cost it was the last thing to try. The little red van been running just fine every since. Sirerma.That sounds like a plan. Keep us posted on how things go after you get the battery charged. If you have a weak battery there’s no point in taking any measurements because they will all be off as a result. More info on that here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Well I have some very good news to share. I replaced the PCM and it came back to life! Thanks for the help everybody. I returned the coil pack to the yard for cash back and hunted down a PCM. While they do have tons of minivans, finding a 95-97 3.3L was a challenge. Found a 95 and verified the P/N sticker, the last two digits were off but the stamping on the case was the same so I figured it was as close as I would get. I’m kinda kicking myself for not holding off until labor day weekend (everything 50% off), but once I return my core it should be around $55.
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