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97 blazer grill/headlight swap from 2-door to 4-dr

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge The Body Shop 97 blazer grill/headlight swap from 2-door to 4-dr

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  • #532886
    Daniel DominBlazerguy1983
    Participant

      I own a 1997 Chevy Blazer 2-door base model with the 4.3L. My blazer as the sealed beam headlights and grill style with a separation between the side markers. The high a d low beam both work through a single headlight and I have daylight running lights. I would like to convert over to the Holagen style headlight and grill with the side marker and headlight as a single unit. This style is typically found on the 4-door model from 1994-1997. I feel I can get better light this way. Does anyone know if it is possible to do conversion, what do I need to buy and what’s involved with a swap? I have already had the front grill off to install a nicer one so I have a pretty good understanding of what is behind the grill. Plus I like the 4-door style and look better. Thanks!

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    • #535290
      MikeMike
      Participant

        I believe all you are going to need is the grill and the headlights – you will have to remove the headlight buckets you have now.. You will need to rewire or get a wiring pigtail to convert that over.. but that is easy.

        But if I were you – why not do the 98 Conversion?

        #535676
        Daniel DominBlazerguy1983
        Participant

          I completed the sealed beam headlight and grill style over to the composite style on my 1997 2-Door Chevy Blazer. It wasn’t bad. You have to first remove the grill with the four 7mm screws that mount it on the top of the grill and remove the two 7mm screws above and below the Chevy symbol in the middle of the grill. The bottom of the frill there are 4 mettle clips that are springing that hold the grill onto the main support. Those clips pull off with the grill. Once the screws are removed pull straight back carefully and the grill will come off. Be careful though because the side marker lights are still twisted into the yellow side marker lenses attached to the grill. Those just twist out. Once the grill is removed you then will need a socket wrench with a long extension and a 10mm socket to remove the 4 mounting screws that hold the sealed beam brackets to the core support. They are recessed back above and below the headlight on al 4 corners. Save the screws. Now you can carefully pull the entire sealed beam and bracket out and remove the plug on the back. It just pulls off. Repeat these steps for each side. The next part is up to you how you want to attach the new 9006 and 9005 socket wire pigtails to the main harness. I just the old sealed beam connectors off. I stripped the outer coating off all the wires about an inch up on the wires on the two pigtails and the wires coming off the truck. For the passenger side you will have a green, tan and a black wire. The green wire is for High beam positive, tan is for low beam positive and the black is the negative/ground wire. I soldiered the tan wire to the positive of the 9006 light pigtail connector (low beam), the green wire to the positive of the 9005 light pigtail connector (high beam) and the black wire I twisted and combined the negative to both pigtails together and soldiered them. I also put head shrink over the soldered connection. The heat shrink must be slid onto the wires before you soldier. The driver side was a little different but same concept. The drive side has 5 wires. Two green and two tan wires and one blue. Strip about an inch up on the pigtails wires and the wires coming off the truck after cutting the main sealed beam connector off. Twist together the two greens to the positive 9005 pigtail wire and soldier. Twist together the two tans to the positive wire of the 9006 pigtail wire. Now twist together the negative wires from both the 9006 and 9005 wire and connect them and soldier them to the blue. This will have the low beam 9006 on the top of your headlight assembly and the high beam 9006 on the bottom. Once everything is soldiered and heat shrunk I prefer to tape all my new connections up with electrical tape to prevent rubbing or damage to the new wires. Two install the new light assemblies there will need three of the four screws on the driver and passenger side to mount the lights. You will also need two on each side, special mettle clips that had treads tapped into them to clip on the two inner/middle holes for the screws to go into to support to mount the lights. I got lucky because I had two on the used headlights I was able to remove and reuse and my buddy had two lying in his tool box. Hold the light assembly up to the mounting holes you can see where the screw clips must be clipped to on the core support. On the driver side there should be one on the top inner side of the assembly bracket, one on the inner side about in the middle or half way down the light bracket. The outer is on the top right side of the light assembly mounting bracket near the finder. The outer one has threads already in the core support for the mounting screws so you will only need the slips on the inner holes. The passenger is the same just flipped around. Once you are in there doing this you will discover quickly that this core support was designed to take these headlights as well as the sealed beams. Test your lights, low and high beams before putting everything back together. Make sure your bulbs are all good because it looks like the only way to change them is to take then entire grill off and un-mount the lights again to access the back of the assemblies to screw in new lights. Install the side maker light sockets into the new light assembly where the yellow lens is. The twist back in just like on the old grill setup. Once everything is put together, swap any necessary hardware or clips from the old sealed beam style grill to the new composite style plastic grill. Slide the new grill on and push the bottom into place to seal the spring clips on the bottom and reinstall your 7mm screws in reverse of the removal. Clean up your tools and wipe any finger prints off the grill and lights then stand back and admire your work. With a buddy the whole project takes about an hour to do everything.

          #550454
          Jeff M.Jeff M.
          Participant

            I did this 95-98 conversion on a friends.

            He had hit a mailbox “drunk” and wanted to do something different rather than the stock look so I suggested upgrading to the 98′ front end.

            Sorry didn’t do a step by step but you get the idea,I started with removing the battery,battery tray,fan shroud “upper and lower”,radiator,attempted to move the tranny cooler but was concerned about the fittings getting messed up so I just moved it aside and was careful to not damage it. Had some fasteners on the bottom under the fender wells going to the radiator support {yes seems odd}

            Old radiator support out and had put the new one in,in this pic.

            New support in and installed the headlights,started installing most the upper and lower fasteners along with radiator,battery tray,battery,ect.

            Finished product,didn’t have to cut or add any wire,just cut the protective loom around them and hooked it all up. He was a happy camper! banana:

            #550460
            Jeff M.Jeff M.
            Participant

              [quote=”daman2030″ post=73322]I did this 95-98 conversion on a friends.

              He had hit a mailbox “drunk” and wanted to do something different rather than the stock look so I suggested upgrading to the 98′ front end.

              Sorry didn’t do a step by step but you get the idea,I started with removing the battery,battery tray,fan shroud “upper and lower”,radiator,attempted to move the tranny cooler but was concerned about the fittings getting messed up so I just moved it aside and was careful to not damage it. Had some fasteners on the bottom under the fender wells going to the radiator support {yes seems odd}

              Old radiator support out and had put the new one in,in this pic.

              New support in and installed the headlights,started installing most the upper and lower fasteners along with radiator,battery tray,battery,ect.

              Finished product,didn’t have to cut or add any wire,just cut the protective loom around them and hooked it all up. He was a happy camper! banana:[/quote]

              Oh and the last pic was a basic mock up,overall was done but just to be sure of fitment I had to make sure.

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