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ok so recently i picked up a 99 subaru legacy outback 30th anniversary and it had little to no brakes. i replaced 2 calipers because i could not get them to bleed (rl and fr fl had been replaced by previous owner) but still they wouldnt bleed. i could get fluid to them but no real pressure. after contacting the previous owner he said he thought it was the master cylinder. so i replaced that and now i have brakes…all the time. they are locked up pedal i nearly solid very little squish. all 4 calipers are locked up. they seem fine at first but the longer i drive the worse its gets naturally because they are getting hotter not sure what the issue is im going to try bleeding all the calipers tomorrow but i dont think thats the issue. i thought it might be the abs but i pulled the fuse and it still happens any ideas?
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Try checking the seal on the pistons of the caliper. I’m pretty sure ETCG did a video on this. Is it hard to spin the rotor manually with the wheel off?
Found the video – [video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]I4FzXGrSrmU[/video]
I’m not sure, but I DON’T think you need a scan tool to bleed the brakes on those.
It’s unlikely that all the calipers went bad at the same time.
Try pulling the check valve off of the booster. See if anything changes.
It sounds like something is binding up somewhere between the pedal and master. Either that or the master is defective.i dont think it has anything to do with the calipers either. i did pull the vacuum line off the booster (i assume this is the check valve?) and it did nothing for the brakes but there was vacuum on the intake side and the engine idled higher im thinking youre right tho about it being between the booster and cylinder im going to try taking it off and just put it back on. i dont think the cylinder is defective it bleed just fine and i had to wait a week on shipping the part cause no shops around here carry the part
The check valve is the little plastic piece that the hose plugged into on the booster. It should be held in with a rubber grommet.
When you take the master off, make sure the pedal moves. It may just be that the pedal was stuck on something.
Things like this often turn out to be something dumb that you never thought of. Sometimes I hate cars. LolEnsure that the pushrod between the booster and master cylinder is properly seated. If is isn’t, it can partially press the master cylinder plunger in when it is bolted down causing this exact type of situation.
i think that exactly whats happening because i took the master cylinder off and there was a psshh noise like when you take the hose off an air tool just not nearly as strong or loud i did compare the old with the new and they have all the same markings in all the same places but the shaft on the new master cylinder is like 1/16 longer than the old the inside depth is the same but i think this is the problem . should i grind the new one down or pull both apart and switch shafts?or is there a better option? i noticed the shaft on the booster has a threaded bit with a nut on the end could this be adjusted?
If it is designed to be adjusted, then yes, it can be adjusted. I would advise that you consult the service manual for your specific vehicle, as with any part designed to be adjusted, there may be a specification to follow. Under no circumstance should you attempt to grind anything. Generally, the only time grinding is permissible is when it is part of an approved service procedure.
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