Brand new turbo installed will jolt when kicking i

[saul]

B) I just got a brand new turbo charger. – not, dealer but online at a cheaper price.
I was not getting enough power from the old one. Was a total PITA getting the new one lineup . After the new install the car feels a bit gritty as if there is no lubrication ( that is the feeling description ) . It had oil change at the time of turbo install with full synthetic.
Now after 60 miles , when I think the turbo kicks in , I feel a sudden jolt. So I step down on the gas. Is this normal or should I be worried about it for a new turbo
I’m driving a saab 9-5 2000 5 speed manual wagon

Topic

[divide_by_zero]

I assume you are talking about a factory OEM style turbo with a journal bearing setup and water/oil lines. Does it have an internal waste-gate?

Do you have a boost gauge? If so, have you monitored the level? I assume the car has a recirculating valve to dump the charge back on the intake side of the compressor when the throttle closes – is it operating correctly?

If your waste-gate isn’t opening correctly when the car hits the appropriate boost level the turbo will continue to spool. The ECU may cut fuel depending on the factory map (I assume your car has not been tuned) Most OEMs put a fuel cut feature in if the car hits load cells that are higher than what is intended to be reached by the factory.

I would not boost the turbo until you verify the waste-gate is functioning correctly.

[saul]

I think the wastegate valve comes as a separate piece.
The dump valve has been replaced by a brand new Forge kind of valve
Unfortunately I have a rare model , which will not have a boost guage .
My understanding is that the if the dump vv & waste gate did not work work , I probably would have blown up by turbo . After the new turbo install I drove the car a thousand miles
I don’t understand why it suddenly jolts when it kicks in

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[Donald]

Is it a bigger turbo than what was on it? You may be getting low speed compressor stall. But it could be that the journal is sticking and hitting the housing. I don’t like aftermarket reman turbos or chinese turbos. Had several problems with reman ones. One I put on even though I checked the waste gate which worked I guess the diaphragm was broken and it almost blew the motor. Damn thing hit 40 psi. Toasted the turbo and almost blew the motor.

[saul]

Nope .Its the exact same size size.But a chinese one. We had to unscrew it a little bit so as to align the ports in the new one to exactly match the old one. It was a tough job…. the new turbo in place in the exact same position the old one was and then putting back on the exhaust manfold.
Now I get an p1549….. This points to bpv or the dump valve . Officially it reads the boost control valve.any clue what’s happening.

[Donald]

It’s chinese. Expect failure soon. The waste gate is probably stuck closed and it’s surging. I’ve had absolutely nothing but bad luck with chinese turbos. Even the ones that are 700 for just the turbo. Bearing failure, Oil seal failure, turbine shaft problems, exhaust side turbine wheel problems, compressor side shearing off. The most interesting one was no oil drainback. Apparently it wasn’t machined drainback so it just caused it to pop the seal and oil went everywhere. Most of these I’ve worked on were custom installs that people bought the kit off ebay but I’ve seen a few ones where it was a “good quality” one that failed. Even though they lasted 10-15k miles that’s still unacceptable longevity. I’d cut your loses and pull it off and get a different reman or rebuild the old one. When it comes to chinese turbos that just stay away.

[Author]

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