Code P1312, 2000, Isuzu, Rodeo, V6, 3.2L, DOHC

[Ron Butler]

Pulling Code P1312 – MOD $10, Ignition current Sense System Secondary Line #2 Circuit, Confirmed

PID: ST FTRM 1 (%) @ IDLE 0.0
ST FTRM 2 (%) @ IDLE 0.0
LT FTRM 1 (%) @ IDLE 15.6
LT FTRM 2 (%) @ IDLE 22.7

How do I repair above code? Where do I look and what’s the solution? I had just repaired and installed new heads, camshafts, and set timing belt to proper positions. I seem to be burning alot of fuel.

Topic

[Krys Kozlowski]

Hey,

According to your fuel trim readings and according to the error code I found, these are a few likely sources

– Faulty Ignition Coil
– Ignition Coil harness is open or shorted
– Ignition Coil circuit poor electrical connection
– Faulty ION Sensor Module

It seems your engine is finding too much air in its system relative to the amount of gas injection, and in combination with your error code, the ignition coil one sounds like a reasonable start for your search.

Cheers mate

[Ron Butler]

Thanks . . .I’ll give a go and check back later!

[Matt]

Timing belt is not put on properly. I believe there is a tsb from Isuzu that involves turning the passenger cam several times until the timing marks line up perfect without tension from the valve springs trying to move it. Then install the belt so all the slack is on the tensioner side of the belt, then set the tensioner.

[Ron Butler]

Thanks Kos!

My Rodeo runs great! I’m pulling DTC’s P1133 (O2 Bank sensor, slow response) and P 0752 (Mod$10 Shift solenoid A stuck on) with Trans Light blinking red intermittingly (after driving 15 minutes on freeway at 65 mph) but going off once it cools down. Should I change out 02 sensor and shift solenoid A?

[Krys Kozlowski]

Hey mate,

The transmission one in my opinion is likely to be caused by your fluid being old. You should flush the system out and replace the filter first. Usually that one pops up when old fluid or bits of debris physically block the solenoid passages.

The p1133 i am not as familiar with but I would look for exhaust leaks or wiring problems first. Also in isuzus it may result from fuel system problems so if you just fixed the ignition coils I would reset the code and drive it for a week to see if it comes back. I found a good trouble shooting guide here:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20trouble%20codes/DTC%20P1133.htm

Cheers mate

[Ron Butler]

Thanks Kos

I had already changed the filter and flushed (approx. 9 quarts) with the system sealed (drain and fill plugs sealed) pumping air into the exit side of transmissiion cooler line. The dirty fluid from torque converter and pumps exiting from the other entrance side of the radiator/trasmission cooler line. I added Lucas transmission fix to the fluid. I have blinking red transmission light coming on after about 15 minutes and staying solid red after 20 minutes. I will run it some more (another flush as well) and get back to you next week. Thanks for the trouble shooting guide on the DTC P1133.

[college man]

I’m late to the party but for the p1312 Timing is not correct
or the Ion sensor is not seated correctly.

http://www.justanswer.com/car/17myj-anyone-tell-p1312-code-2000-isuzu.html

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic490041.htm

p1133 o2 sensor pcm not seeing switching. with the fuel trims
being positive. I would suspect vacuum leaks.

[Ron Butler]

Koz

My transmission will not engage in any of the 4 forward speeds or reverse. Any advice as I plan to rebuild myself (call me crazy) other than buy a used or rebuilt transmission. I figure by watching ETCG videos and reading the automatic transmission manuel I can rebuild it myself. I am inexperienced (computer geek) but very good at following step by step directions (two automotive shops gave up on trying to repair my timing issues after I installed the heads and cams myself). Admittedly I didn’t install the cams properly on the first go but “got it” on the second try. I realize I have only one shot at it on the trans but I’m a cheap bastard and don’t want to pay the $1,500 to $2,500 to a transmission repair shop. What’s your opinion on that?

[Krys Kozlowski]

Hey Mister Butler,

If the transmission will not engage in any gears whatsoever, you may be running it dry or the torque converter might be bad. Transmission control unit could also be a reasonable first guess.

I’m personally a huge fan of all things fixed myself, but I will say this much, in Germany, not even dealership shops do auto tranny overhauls anymore. Usually, they swap for new parts as the reconstruction is extremely fidgety, especially the fluid body part (not sure what you call it in US English, sorry). You could conceivably rebuild bits like a single gear slipping due to a faulty clutch disc or, another favorite, the ballast valves get stuck and block a gear from working right.

But your symptoms lead me to believe it’s perhaps a control unit or connection problem. I saw that a long time ago on a 89 lebaron, it wouldn’t engage in any gears anymore because it had severe leakage which lead to torque converter failure.

Good luck mate!

[Author]

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