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I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 that I bought used. When I bought the car there were a few things that led me to think it was modded, there was a cord for an Accessport wrapped around the steering wheel, a boost gauge and some aftermarket turbo hose couplings under the hood. But since then I blew up that engine by snapping a rod and sending it out the side of the block, but I have replaced the engine with another 1st gen Mazdaspeed engine with around the same kms. My problem is that ever since the engine swap was done (by a mechanic at a dealer), the car has a massive drop in power showing a consistent 11-12 psi at wide-open-throttle and the old engine would peak at 18psi and when the wastegate opened it would hold at around 15psi. The factory specs on these cars for psi is 15-16psi. The only thing that was actually swapped was the actual engine block and nothing else except some sensors which are bottled directly to the block, and I mean old wiring harness, old ecu, old turbo, everything except the block. My question is would my drop in power and boost be a result of the previous owner installing a tune onto the old ecu, and being a different engine, that the tune wouldn’t be compatible with the new engine as the tune wasn’t done on it? I have done a boost leak test and couldn’t find any major leaks and there is a cel light on but that’s just for evap and shouldn’t effect performance I don’t think. Any advice will help or anything I can try before I have to get it re-tuned? Thanks!
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My first check would be to make certain that all sensors are being reported, and then look for a boost leak, exhaust leak or even bad pipe routes. If that all checks out may want to have the ECM re-flashed to factory spec to prevent conflicting sensor inputs to the ECM. It also could be as simple as some bugged lines of code in the ECM from the tech making adjustments and not knowing about aftermarket flashing done to the ECM.
What would be the easiest way to check that all sensors are being reported? And you think I should still get the ECM tuned back to factory specs after doing that? I will also do another boost leak test just to double check, thanks for the help!
Sadly only way is to either find the test for each one of the sensors, or to have it hooked up to a full service computer. I would start with the air, water and any other temperature sensor that adjusts the air/ fuel ratio then move to the mass air and other more costly, less overlooked pick-ups, being as there is no trip to the check engine light.
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