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Ok guys, I’m working on an electrical problem on my mom’s 2003 Mercury Sable wagon. Same as the Ford Taurus wagon. She has the electronic automatic temperature control unit. I need to make some fused jumper wires but I don’t know what size fuse I should be using. I have the wiring diagrams. I need to jump terminals on two sets of connectors on the remote climate control module. Any ideas what size fuse I should be using? Or a minimum at best? Any help would be appreciated. Let me know if you need more info.
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Thanks for the reply. I actually have seen those videos with Dwayne from realfixesrealfast. I know how to read them well enough to understand the circuit, I’m now trying to learn how to apply what I know. My original question was about what size fuse to use with a fused jumper wire because that’s what the service manual said to do. I knew the circuit was protected through the 15A fuse and the 10A fuse when in run but I didn’t know if there was some other reason they wanted you to protect the circuit from the jumper. I assume it’s in case you jump the wrong pins. Thanks again for the reply, I’m going to work on it later and I’ll re post to see if I can’t close out this topic.
What was confusing me though, and you probably gathered it from my posts, was the signal that comes from the PCM into the remote climate control module. I should have looked at it a little more thoroughly but I don’t mind asking questions about electrical. I know I have a lot more to learn about it.
[quote=”slipknot1488″ post=63920]As long as I get the right pins I shouldn’t need a fused jumper, right?[/quote]
I wouldn’t bother making a fused jumper, as you stated, the hot feeds are already fused protected.
But I would unplug the connector to the actuator before powering it to make it move to prevent a chance of damaging the controller board.
I haven’t gotten a chance to finish the project yet. could i jump the power side and then just supply ground with the power probe instead of using two jumper leads?
I believe the correct answer to your question is “whatever is easiest for you.”
In either case, the result should be the same.
Well, I performed my testing and the actuator doesn’t move in either direction. I removed it and the door itself isn’t bound up at all, it moves freely. The wiring in the circuit seems fine, there’s power and ground where it should be. I think I can safely assume it’s the actuator. Thanks for all of the help.
One other thing you could do is test a known good actuator and see if you can get it to move via jumping directly to power and ground. This will help ensure that your testing methods themselves are sound.
I’ve been really busy today and couldn’t respond to slipnots post. But when I did get to see his post and found out that he had a power probe, I’m paralyzed and almost fell out my bed. That tool alone is a complement to his efforts. He could have run continuity test on the motor, and supplied voltage to the motor, all with the least amount of effort. “WoW” :whistle:
Ultimately that’s what I ended up doing but I was afraid I would fry the actuator by doing that. Turns out the actuator was already shot.
in some vehicles, you need to use a scan tool to induce an actuator re-learn procedure. i am not sure if your vehicle is one of these. in some vehicles the computer can detect a change in amperage to indicate when an actuator has reached its full travel. of course, computer re-learning is not necessary in vacuum operated HVAC assemblies.
Yea that wasn’t necessary. One of my good friends has access to a really expensive scan tool at his shop so it wouldn’t have been a problem. Everything seems to be fine though, the car now has heat and A/C and the actuator moves it both directions. Thanks again for your help and knowledge, I appreciate it very much.
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