Flashing glow plug light

[Ioan-Marius Muntianu]

Hi Eric

Back again with a question about my 2006 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI.
Sometimes under heavy acceleration the glow plug light starts flashing and the engine gets in limp mode. After I restart the engine everything goes back to normal.
I checked it for codes and has a P132b. From what I found online the code pops up when the turbo vanes are sticking. I just checked them and they move freely.
I am a bit confused on how to go forward with this issue because this car doesn’t have that many sensors so live data doesn’t tell me much. I have a Autel MaxiDas scanner and all the sensors I can see are intake temp and pressure, MAF, EGR position and turbo actuator position. No other sensors on exhaust.
What do you think it could be? Or should I just be more gentle with it and leave it like that?

Many thanks.

Topic

[college man]

see if this helps.

http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/2g6qj-hi-getting-p132b-code-glow-light-flashing.html

[Ioan-Marius Muntianu]

I have tried all they say already.
The thing is that the actuator doesn’t really move the vanes while the vehicle is stationary. I think it would only open them under load.
I had a small stethoscope camera next to it while driving and I could see that it moves quite a lot under hard acceleration.
So the vanes move freely as I said before, the actuator is able to move them and I checked all the intake piping for split hoses.
I am thinking there is a small boost leak somewhere on the intake since the computer only measures pressure and temps. Could it be that?
Or could it be that the EGR is busted and it leaks boost?

Thanks

[college man]

I was following the procedure. If the veins move free according to the
troubleshooting the actuator is at fault.

[Ioan-Marius Muntianu]

I think you are right. It could be the actuator.
I have seen on some forums people having problems with that and getting the same code.
It has some small wires inside that break, but since I have seen it move under load I excluded the actuator.

I will try and see if the diagnostic tool can control the actuator directly. I know it can control other things. I used it for the ABS and some time ago I used to control the EGR. If I can’t test it I will just open the actuator to take a look at it. What I am afraid of is that just re-soldering won’t work due the heat. By the look of the picture I think the wires are ultrasonic welded.
I’ll let you know if get anywhere with it.
Thanks.

[college man]

Nice picture of the actuator. Keep us posted.

[Ioan-Marius Muntianu]

So I am back

I checked the actuator with the scan tool and it moves with no problems.
Since the last time the code disappeared so I went on the highway and tried to provoke it again.
And after a few tries it did it again. the same flashing light with limp mode.

I checked it for codes and this time I got three:
P132B – Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance (the same as before)
P0191 – Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1
P2288 – Injector Control Pressure Too High

Now I am thinking it is a fuel delivery issue. I’ll have to check the connections and the wires, but I don’t think that is an issue (if it would be that it would do it all the time I would guess). I am hoping is not the fuel pump that starts to fail because that will be expensive and quite hard to replace (I have to take the engine out because there is not enough space). I would think that if the pump would be an issue I would get a “Pressure Too Low” code instead.
From what I read there could be many things for this combination of codes. I am thinking to start with a fuel filter replacement (was done last year), checking all the connections and wires, cleaning the injectors. I’ll also do an oil change while I am at it as it just passed 10000 km since last change.
Do you think I am on the right track with this?

I have an ultrasonic cleaner bath and will use that for the injectors. Do you know what solution I should use? What would be best for injector cleaning?

Thanks

[college man]

see if this helps.

http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/6kd47-ford-mondeo-titanium-07-tdci-won-t-start-turning-over.html

[Ioan-Marius Muntianu]

Hello again

I haven’t had the time to work on the issue until now. I tried to provoke the fault again and couldn’t do it.
I have scanned the computer again and I have just seen the there are some other faults. I am now thinking the engine is ok and the problem lies somewhere else.
This car has an fuel fired auxiliary heater that should turn on if the outside temperature is below 5 degrees Celsius and the head temperature does not exceed 60 degrees Celsius. I knew the heater did not work from last year. It had a code saying the blower motor has an open circuit.
However now it has set a code saying Auxiliary Heated faulted.
I am thinking the main ECU did not know the heater is faulted and it does not use any fuel, just pumped more fuel and that would give the Pressure too high code I have seen before.
I managed to find a set of gaskets for this heater and will give it an overhaul soon.

First I have to change the suspension and some bushings

[college man]

Keep us updated. 🙂

[Author]

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