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I would research here using this website linked –
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub … p?ubb=cfrm
There is alot of information at the listed website!
Oh wow, oil now? Well, Fram never gets anywhere near my cars. Since their filters are trash I can’t imagine the oil being any better. Caveat emptor.
If you have an older engine don’t even consider using synthetic oil as it may cause every oil seal to start leaking and cause the engine to burn oil where it didn’t before, just do a search of this forum and you’ll see at least a couple of posts on this.
The truth is there are only so many refineries out there so the ‘brand’ of oil you get (just about every synthetic oil is a ‘blend’ and not 100% synthetic BTW) will come from the same place, that said Fram probably buys it and slaps their name on it and away you go. Sure some companies put additives in to make their oil ‘special’ however I’ve run ‘cheep’ oil for years and changed it regularly without ANY problems. Just my 2c
Is there a FRAM oil refinery, or a FRAM chemical plant, or a FRAM oil blending facility?
If no, then it is likely they are buying it from someone else, then just rebranding it as theirs. So FRAM is just a reseller, but for who?
Only an insider at FRAM and an insider at the supplier would know what this oil really is.
It falls into good vs. good enough. Synthetic Oil is good, but regular oil is good enough. I have seen cars with 300K on regular oil with 6K oil flush. That is good enough and not planning on keeping any of my cars beyond this point.
I’d honestly stay away from Fram. If you want cheap but still decent synthetic oil. Go to Wal-Mart and buy the 5Qt Jugs. Its cheap, And much better then Fram. I’d also stay away from there oil filters as well. If you want cheap and good. Motorcraft or Purolator Pure One’s.
Just my .02
I think it’s actually made by Conoco-Phillips, so the base oil is fine at least, you just don’t know what additives are in it. It’s probably not much different from other “house brand” motor oils really.
“Liberty Gold” motor oil and “Bullsye” have been reported to be the two worst motor oils for sale in the United States. I’ve seen a report somewhere that neither of them meet acceptable standards for motor oil. I’ve seen Bullseye for sale around here in convienence stores for nearly $6/quart…
Yeah, it’s probably similar to Supertech oil, but it’s not worth my time to send out dog poo to a lab, only to discover it’s similar to dog poo brand X. I like to stick to big names. Plus if for some reason you had a lubrication related failure – good luck trying to get any compensation. Not sure if Fram would stand behind it, but I have heard from people that used a big name filter (not Fram), and then for some reason the filter failed and the engine blew – the person got fully compensated.
Personally I would just rather wait for an Autozone 5qt+ filter deal with a good oil (Mobil, Catrol, etc) or go to wally world and pick up a jug. I don’t like to pinch pennies on oil.
Quoted From Moose:
I think it’s actually made by Conoco-Phillips, so the base oil is fine at least, you just don’t know what additives are in it. It’s probably not much different from other “house brand” motor oils really.
If it is made by Conoco-Phillips it is either the Motorcraft/Trop-Artic synthetic or the Kendall synthetic with Ti. Both oils are good oils on par with Havoline/Chevron oils and an excellent buy at $2.99 a quart. Many generic or rebranded oils are bottled by a few companies so do not worry about it. A WPP or WNE on the bottom of the bottle means it is bottled by Warren Performance Products which is a big blender/bottler for Walmart and Exxon Mobil also bottles a lot of oil for the generic and house brand labels (ie “fat mouth” Walmart Supertech oils).
Quoted From Moose:
“Liberty Gold” motor oil and “Bullsye” have been reported to be the two worst motor oils for sale in the United States. I’ve seen a report somewhere that neither of them meet acceptable standards for motor oil. I’ve seen Bullseye for sale around here in convienence stores for nearly $6/quart…
These are the oils that people should be worried about. Here north of Dayton I have seen these oils sold for $1.99 to $3 with name brand oils going for $5-6 a quart so sadly people are going to buy these oils and mess up their engines. People interest on details of these bad oils should check out http://www.pqiamerica.com for more info. Note that this site does not play favorites, it simply checks to make sure that the motor oils meet the specs which they are sold under (ie SN,SJ, etc) and that they are not no additive “flush” or “cutting” oils.
Want me to compile a list of Oils to absolutely stay away from? Because I will. Supertech is one of them, If Fram makes oil, That will be another. Quakerstate is also another.
More then likely it is a rebranded cheap oil to make some profits off of. Fram has good marketing, Not a good product. IMO.
Quoted From SVTDice:
Want me to compile a list of Oils to absolutely stay away from? Because I will. Supertech is one of them, If Fram makes oil, That will be another. Quakerstate is also another.
More then likely it is a rebranded cheap oil to make some profits off of. Fram has good marketing, Not a good product. IMO.
What don’t you like about QState?
Since we’re on the topic of oil, what does everybody use? I go with Valvoline oil and Purolator filters
Quoted From johnzcarz:
What don’t you like about QState?
Well for one. QStates Normal Synthetic shears pretty bad. It also has a awful pour point. For colder weather its a no go. If you live up North and catch a -30/-40 Day, Well your car will have a bad day to say the least. I’m not sure how well Ultimate Durability is however. I’ll have to look into it. But honestly, Even a “Average” Synthetic will be leaps ahead of normal Conventional.
Quoted From steel eater:
Since we’re on the topic of oil, what does everybody use? I go with Valvoline oil and Purolator filters
Valvoline makes some good oils. Do you use the Purolator Classic or Pure one? The Pure one is a fantastic filter for the price.
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