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[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSv0FojidV4[/video]
Alright, So thats some shots of the car in question here.
A few months ago this car was brought to me with sudden a no-start. I repaired some hacked up wiring, removed wires for items not used anymore (for racing) and re-routed the passenger side main harness out of collision danger. The cause to that problem then was a burned ECU. And it was thought it was caused by the cars driver washing the car interior out with water and getting the ECU wet. Replaced the ECU and it ran fine for months.
Attempts at repairing the ECU were fruitless. After repairing two traces that were burned through and replaced two burned diodes related to the burned traces, the ECU was still internally shorted.As soon as I throw power to it, it blows the engine fuse.
The new ECU worked fine for months, until the driver moved the vehicle, parked it and when trying to restart it an hour later, it was blowing ECU fuses again and not starting. The owner put in a THIRD ECU and it fires right up and runs. Inspection of the second ECU that was blowing fuses the SAME two traces were burned. Repairing the burned traces leaves a shorted ECU that blows the engine fuse. Yet a replacement ECU works fine.
Shaking, pulling and twisting wires, connectors and components with the engine running has not shown any faults. I cannot reproduce the problem that is shorting the ECU.
Here are pics of the burned traces. I see no damaged components.
The ECU burns traces between the Positive side of Capacitor C2 and the Anode side of Diode D3.
On the back side, the trace between the Anode side of Diode D2 and pin D1 (Battery +)
Once the traces are repaired, the ECU still blows the engine fuse. Yet a NEW ECU will work fine.The only modification I see to the engine is a O2 sensor simulator.This appears to be wired correctly and securely…But perhaps its faulty?
Thanks for any input.
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