- This topic has 10 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by
.
-
Topic
-
:unsure: ONE ROTTER WAS GROVED IN ITS CENTER LINE CIRCUMFERENCE AND WHEN REMOVING THE BRAKE PADS AND CALIPER, THE OUTSIDE BRAKE PAD WAS THINLY WASTED, WHILE THE PAD FACING THE PISTON STILL HAD LOTS OF MEAT ON ITS BONE. ALL PADS AFTER 47,000 MILES STILL HAD A GOOD SURFACE LOOK TO THEM WITH EVEN WARE, EXCEPT FOR ONE PAD.
SO, I LIFTED THE CAR, TURN THE ENGINE ON,SHIFTED TO DRIVE TO GET THE WHEELS SPINNING AND BEGAN TO GRIND FEELING THE ROTTER WAS SLIGHTLY WARPED, AS I APPLIED GENTLE PRESSURE TO THE OUTER CIRCUMFERENCE WHERE DIRTY AND GRIT FORMED, A SLIGHT MOUND HIGER THEN THE ROTTERS CENTER-SURFACE; SHAVING THIS OFF, MERGING WITH THE LOWER SURFACE PLANE OF THE ROTTER DOWN TO THE INNER MOUND CIRCUMFERENCE, GENTLY SHAVING IT DOWN, IT TURN OUT TO BE AN EXCELLENT JOB, FOR A FIRST TIMER!
I DID NOT WANT TO TAKE OUT THE ROTTER AND REVERSE IT ONTO THE WHEEL HUB AND FASTEN IT DOWN WITH THE LUGS TO DO THE BACK SIDE OF THAT ROTTER; THE PLATE GUARD, WAS IN THE WAY, SO I CREEPED INTO THE WHEEL WELL AND JUST DID A LIGHT GRIND GETTING THE SPARKS ON MY ARM AND DUST IN MY FACE, SO I HAD TO STOP.UNDER THE VEHICLE IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO REACH AND EXAMINED, HOW CAN I REMOVE THE PLATE GUARD, I DON’T KNOW?
HOW DO I GET THE ROTTER PLATE GUARD OFF, WITH OUT TOUCHING THE ROTTER AND THE WHEEL HUB? AND WHY WAS THE LEFT SIDE WHEEL SPINNING, WHILE THE RIGHT SIDE WHEELS WERE SLOWLY MOVING BUT NOT SPINNING IN UNISON WITH THE LEFT SIDE? DID I DAMAGE THE DIFERENTIALS ON THIS 4 WHEEL DRIVE?
-
Replies
-
Unless you have access to an on car brake lathe I recommend taking the rotors off and having them machined on a brake lathe ( unless worn beyond specs then replace them ) what were you ” grinding ” them with ? did you mic them ? rotors that are too thin can cause a variety of problems. normally you can’t remove the shield without removing the brake , rotor assembly. what type vehicle are you working on ?
Nowadays with the recommendation being to slap new pads on any rotor not completely trashed my guess is what grinding you did is probably not going to be problematic. Well, you will know when you drive the vehicle.
I’m not sure how you are doing this but I can think of some ways that would be very dangerous.
BTW, the wheel with the lessor friction in the bearings, gears and seals will be the one that spins.
A electric power grinder with a light disc;no i don’t know how to use the micromator on the rotters; the wheel with the less friction is that because the emergency brakes are tighter in some wheels?; if I remove the rotters do I replace the emergency brake pads hidden behind the rotter too, I hardly use the emergency brakes except when parking facing down hill slope; the shield seemed impossible to move from behind the rotters, i haver no experience taking out the rotters; i test ran the car after driving it and just gently appling the brake off n on the pedal increased in strenght. I did bleed all 4 wheels after doing a brake fluid flush its a suzuki grand vityara 2010 suv 4 cyl;4whl dri a 2. something litter engine size.
Being around something spinning that is driven by the engine, get caught on that and trouble quickly follows – that’s all.
I always appreciate everyones input because it helps my awareness reach critical mass in re-assessing my work with the reality of what is happening in the car, in terms of sounds; behavior; and functions; it a valueable asset to real learning, when there is no one to one, with a professor with realtime application and prinicipals opften they delete application and give a half wit incomplete principal so we graduate with uncertainity; we are not being taught in higher Education because it is privized and now federalized. Again you are the greatest commodity, the people are, the greatest commodity, when all systems fail or are politcally stollen from the people in this present day tyranny.
break rotors have a minimom thickness rating that engineers have specified, the rotors must be so thick in order too properly decipate heat and handle the stresses of breaking, if you wear a rotor too thin it cannot descipate heat correctly, and pressures from the calipers that the break rotors could otherwise sustain during panic stops, would otherwise cause the rotors too now warp or even in worse case scenarios crack, this is dangerous, a rotor that comes apart because it has failed leaves you with not only no breaks too that wheel, but also could possibly result in damage too the vehicle especially if the vehicle is going at high enough speed and the rotor flies apart.
it is recommended too machine your rotors with an approved break lathe, and only too machine them if the lowest measured thickness is within minimum machining thickness spec, that is typically specified, or .030 over minimum overall thickness of the rotor. in otherwords be cautious bud, you should get your rotors machined buy someone who knows what they are doing, on a brake lathe, and only with rotors that can be machined if they are too thin its not safe.
wow, i am taking it serious brother, i will now have to learn to use the micromator to measure the thickness , on the one roter i grinded then learn to pull the monsters out and find a trust worth shop, that is always an issue so many shop steal the money and never really do a good job.
I’m a cheap mechanic too and use a third-world solution sometimes, but grinding my own rotors is going a bit too far. Too many ways to die, now or later.
Suggest you take the rotors someplace to get ground down, they will have the right and precise grinding equipment and they’ll measure it for warpage and minimum thickness too.
I do not endorse this procedure. Machining is a precise practice. This means that a ‘hand held’ approach is not a good idea and likely won’t be successful. I would recommend you remove the rotors and take them somewhere where you can have them machined, or just replace them. It’s not that expensive to have them machined at your local auto parts store.
Good luck and keep us posted.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.