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ERIC,
What do you think I need to have the shop perform engine before I take the car home? do you think perform leak down test is necessary?
I need suggestion before I pick up the car tomorrow on 12/30/2011.
Hi everyone,
I picked the car up today, the car ran great without 6 cylinder misfires. the total cost $700.00.. they charge total timebelf labor job..the only part they have to replace was Automatic Tensioner Adjust .
$450 labor
$155.00 part tensioner adjust
$79.00 diagnostic ( good price I though)
plus taxThey kept my old water pump and timebelt..they’re still good because was changed @110,000 miles and now at 139,000 miles. next time, if I do the timebelt, I’ll change new automatic tensioner adjust because you can’t tell when the tensioner adjust goes bad. I did not do the timebelt, I had the shop did for me…and they did not change automatic tensioner….
The automatic tensioner was bad because oil leak out… from this experience, I learned a lot. Next time, I’ll do the timebelt myself . I’ll put a new automatic tensioner because don’t cut cost at the tensioner.
The mechanic told me..the tensioner normally good for two timebelts…maybe someone can comment on that… I don’t want to take another chance…
I am happy with the result and the job well done…
Tomorrow, I’ll share the pics bad automatic tensioner and pics intake manifold dirty EGR port.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ERIC and ALL YOU GUYS BECAUSE WITH OUT YOU GUYS. I DON’T KNOW WHERE TO START AND FINISH. LEARN A LOT FROM this ACURA problem.
The car gas pedal response much better after cleaning all EGR ports…
First those tensioners go bad all the time in fact in my J series timing belt video I recommend replacing them whenever doing that job.
Yes you can do a valve adjustment on that engine, Honda says to do it if the valves are noisy, I’ve shot video on this but I have to edit it yet.
More BAD LUCK for me…. Just park the car Acura on street overnight at a friend house, someone hit and run…. the car damaged is somewhere 3000-4000 to fix….they hit from rear.. I can’t believe it… I am very careful when it comes to car.. ONE night at a friend house cost me more $$$ ….
Here the pics that I want to share the things I had done to solve the trouble codes
1) dirty pic EGR port (before cleaned)
2) after pic EGR port had been cleaned
3) pic bottom intake that EGR port passage back to EGR valve
I had P0172 and it’s counterpart P0175 as well as the TCS light in my 2003 Accord with 330K+ miles. Service manual was pointing to the MAF sensor but research on the web had me leaning towards fuel injectors or a valve adjustment. Turned out to be a vacuum leak in the accordion tubing leading to the throttle body. $33 part and Problem solved. Lesson learned hear was that the codes that show may be misleading. Car runs BETTER than it has in years.
I had P0172 and it’s counterpart P0175 as well as the TCS light in my 2003 Accord with 330K+ miles. Service manual was pointing to the MAF sensor but research on the web had me leaning towards fuel injectors or a valve adjustment. Turned out to be a vacuum leak in the accordion tubing leading to the throttle body. $33 part and Problem solved. Lesson learned hear was that the codes that show may be misleading. Car runs BETTER than it has in years.
Glad to hear you got the issue resolved. I say it time and time again, don’t go for the complicated theories when dealing with performance issues, look to the simple stuff first. It’s not that the codes were misleading, those codes were legit. Many things can cause those codes and mixture problems are at the top of that list. A hole in the air tube like that can offset the fuel mixture.
As you have found in this case your problem had a simple solution and in my experience this is often the case. Stay away from assumptions when dealing with auto repair, it gets expensive. Thanks for the update and for using the ETCG forum.
Glad to hear you got the issue resolved. I say it time and time again, don’t go for the complicated theories when dealing with performance issues, look to the simple stuff first. It’s not that the codes were misleading, those codes were legit. Many things can cause those codes and mixture problems are at the top of that list. A hole in the air tube like that can offset the fuel mixture.
As you have found in this case your problem had a simple solution and in my experience this is often the case. Stay away from assumptions when dealing with auto repair, it gets expensive. Thanks for the update and for using the ETCG forum.
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