My A/C compressor Remove & Replace

[Joeseph Mama]

It’s the hot summer months and we all want to have that cold a/c. So, to be nice, I hooked up my aunt with some icy cold refreshing a/c on her 2004 Buick LeSabre:

Since I didn’t have a belt routing diagram, I just took a picture.

Took out the old compresssor.

Installed the new compressor.

changed the orifice tube.

Placed the system under vacuum.

recharged the system and now it’s icy cold. 🙂

Attachments:

• beltroudingdiagram.jpg
• oldcompressorout.jpg
• newcompressorinstalled.jpg
• vacuumpump.jpg
• systemundervacuum.jpg
• orificetube.jpg

Topic

[Bill]

I hope the new compressor came filled with oil and that you don’t have any leaks. Looks like you did a good job though.

[Its me]

+1… That was the first thing that came to my mind….( For all… if there is not a proper amount of oil in the system, this will last a week to a few months before the compressor self destructs)…. Also, thought about the Accumulator and line condition…

I was trained to drain the new compressor (never trust the manufacturer) and manually turn the compressor and add the required amount of oil for the compressor (Alldata usually has this)..

Here is a good video that shows a guy doing this…

To add… I can’t see the orifice tube real well to see how bad it is, but if the last compressor self destructed the orifice tube can’t stop all the bits that get into the system and the WHOLE system needs to be flushed with special cleaner… Or else the new compressor, tube and all the rest will be ruined in a short time..

Of course as an optimist I am seeing the worst case scenario…

Hope it all works well and your Aunt enjoys the the A/C!

-Karl

[Its me]

I would like to add for the record (and nothing Against Ratchet Face) that this type of post may be slightly misleading about how easy it is to repair Air Conditioning.

In the simplest sense, what is shown is correct, but there are some steps that should be done to ensure the compressor does not go bad again.

For one, if the prior compressor is bad and has shards of metal or black death in the oil then the whole system needs flushed… To simply replace a compressor, orifice tube and accumulator only will waste your money because there are still bits of metal elsewhere in the system (the lines, condenser and evaporator)…

There is a special tool and cleaner designed to flush systems… This has to be done after an internal failure of a compressor.

I have seen all too many times DIYers who attempt just to change the compressor, orifice tube and accumulator, pull vac add refrigerant and get great working A/C then wonder why the A/C stops working a few months later…

Additionally, not adding the proper amount (or type) of oil can also kill a new compressor…. There will be “some” oil in any new A/C compressor, but it may not be what is required…

The repair for any A/C system is dependent on what happened to it… I.E. if there is a leak due to physical damage in the line, then the line can be replaced, new accumulator added, vacuum pulled and charged and things should be fine (assuming the compressor is not leaking)….

Also, if the clutch or clutch bearings are bad, then they can usually be replaced on the vehicle without removing the compressor or even opening the system….

An open system must always be evacuated before re-charge as well… pull vac to 29 HgIn for 45 min or so…(if you are higher in altitude the HgIn may be lower)

Trying to take advantage of a teachable moment..

I sincerely hope Ratchet Face’s repair works long term… I do not know everything he did so hopefully he drained the new compressor, added back the required oil, then flushed the lines/system, replaced the accumulator (and added some oil), Pulled vacuum on the system for 45 minutes and ensured it held VAC for another 15 min before adding refrigerant..

-Karl

[Joeseph Mama]

[Its me]

This is very true.. oftentimes is is much easier just to replace the condensor… However there are a couple of car manufacturers who say to flush out condensors..

For the DIY person a flush when replacing parts should include a flush of the lines when they are disassembled. If a condenser won’t flush then yes, much easier to replace..

[Peter]

By Kilmer’s logic, does this mean that the evaporator should be replaced as well?

I assume the lines can just be flushed out (since they’re not nearly as small), but replacing an otherwise functional evap when replacing a bad compresser adds a lot to the labor (especially if it’s replacement involves removing the heater core…)

[Author]

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