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Ive got a 2002 mazda protege 2.0 dohc 5speed. awhile back i had this issue and it turned out to be the starter. i replaced it with one from autozone which didnt work, so after i replaced the relay ign switch and testing the clutch switch i found out it was the wrong starter (wrong starter but right part number). finally got it running and spun all the rod bearings 24hrs later. now i have a block that i bought off a guy on another forum which had a polished crank, pistons, rods, oil pan and all that already together. i put my head (cleaned and lapped valves) and every thing else back on (new timing belt, pulleys, clutch, flywheel and a few sensors) and yes i can crank it around by hand no problem. ive double and triple checked all the sensors and hoses everything is plugged in but im still getting no crank (side note i also dont hear the fuel pump prime)ive verified the starter is good and the the motor is grounded and that im getting power to the starter (about 12v to both connectors) i have tried jumping the starter with no luck. another odd thing is that when i try to start it the dummy lights stay on they dont turn off like in your video. i can send pics or videos of any thing just let me know and any help is greatly appreciated
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With all that work the first step is to go back over everything and make sure it’s all hooked up correctly. Also, since the lights on the dash remain on, you might check the ignition switch operation. Also check the battery and it’s connections. More information in these articles.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks I know the battery is good I put a jumper on it and got 16+ volts and the connectors are new the whole ground wire is new and I replaced the ignition switch the first time but now I know how to checkit so I’ll do that tomorrow and let you what happens
Do you mean 12+ volts?
I’ve run into this situation – I checked for voltage and I thought I had power. But I had a high resistance connection and when I put load on it, no power.
Also, new cars have ground wires all over the place. When swapping engines it is easy to miss one or more of these. Well, the power has to get back to the battery. I know of people who have burnt entire wiring looms because of a missing ground.
I think you should at least hear the solenoid click. Strange./
Once you’ve checked everything’s hooked up correctly, have a friend turn the key while you measure the voltage between the starter positive and ground. As barneyb says, 12v unloaded is one thing, but a bad connection can make this drop to zero under load.
Check for 12v at the solenoid post (where the thick battery positive meets the starter) and the spade connector near it when the key’s turned and the solenoid’s not clicking, suspect a bad solenoid.
The battery reads 12v but with a jump box its 16v and ive checked for ground in multiple spots with a test light and had no issues. i put my volt meter between the negative battery post and the spade connector on the starter, it read -12v in the on position and -0.05v in the start position i have a video of this but i cant post it directly here so i can post it to youtube if it helps
Here’s how to check a starter.
That said, if the lights are still on on your dash when you turn the key, the starter is not likely the issue. Sounds to me like the starter isn’t getting a signal to start. That could be the ignition switch, or some other component in the starting system. Perhaps the neutral safety switch or starter relay.
Keep us posted.
OK I tested the relay the clutch switch at the ignition switch in all its positions with no issues. I should note that the relay and ign switch are both new I replaced them the first time I had this issue
Turn the key to run and the abs light comes on and waits for the self test to complete and it never occurs. The airbag system light comes on and waits for the self test to complete and it never occurs. And so on. So, I’d suggest your vehicle doesn’t have ignition key power outside of the cabin.
are you saying that im not getting power from the ign switch to the rest of the car like the starter and such how can i test that?
I’m brain storming here but I’m thinking there is a rack of relays and fuses under the hood that aren’t getting power when the ignition switch is turned to run. That would explain the dash lights staying on, the fuel pump not running and the starter not working.
That’s possible I’ll have to check for power at the fuse box tomorrow. I did check the fuses but I didn’t think of that
I am getting to the fuse box i checked both sides of the main fuse and i checked on one of the fuses
Yea, basically at this point you need to get yourself a wiring diagram and start tracking down the power. Grounds as well but I’m guessing your problem is in power delivery. I would start with a wiring diagram of the ignition circuit. I’m guessing that you’re loosing it at the ignition switch or somewhere near there based on your description. Keep us posted.
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