no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L

[str8mennis]

Hello all,

Topic

[jacobnbr1]

Here is the flow of diagnostics on the ignitor.
IGNITER UNIT INPUT TEST
Igniter Unit

See CODE [15] IGNITION OUTPUT TEST when the self-diagnostic indicator blinks. Perform an input test for the igniter unit after finishing the fundamental tests for the ignition system and fuel emission system. Check for blown No.32 (50 A) fuse in the dash fuse box before testing.

1. Remove the distributor cap, the leak cover and the rotor.
2. Disconnect the WHT wire, BLK/YEL wire, WHT/BLU wire, and the BLU wire from the igniter unit.
3. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch ON.

a)If there is no voltage, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.b)If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.

1. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch ON.

a)If there is no voltage, check for:-Faulty ignition coil.

• An open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.

b)If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.

1. Check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground.

a)If there is no continuity, check for:

• An open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the PGM-FI ECU. -Poor ground at thermostat housing (G101 or G151). Refer to Cooling System / Cooling Fan Motor / Diagrams . See: Engine, Cooling and ExhaustCooling SystemRadiator Cooling Fan MotorDiagramsElectrical

b)If there is continuity, go to step 6.

1. Check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground.

a)If there is no continuity, check for:

• An open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer or the A/T control unit. -Poor ground at thermostat housing (G151), left front fender well next to washer bottle (G301) or left kick-panel (G401). Refer to Cooling System / Cooling Fan Motor / Diagrams . See: Engine, Cooling and ExhaustCooling SystemRadiator Cooling Fan MotorDiagramsElectrical

b)If there is continuity, go to step 7.

1. If all continuity and voltage tests are normal, but the engine won’t start, replace the igniter unit.

NOTE :The igniter unit may be covered under the manufacturer’s emission warranty. Contact the appropriate agency before replacing.

[str8mennis]

When i checked the black and yellow wire with the ground from the battery it had 11.82 volts i am going to do the other test like you said. be back shortly

[EricTheCarGuy]

I need to chime in on this because I’ve seen TONS of problems with aftermarket distributors. I don’t often find problems with the sensors inside (unless they are aftermarket) but the tests in this video WILL show if you have an igniter or a coil problem. If you do replace the distributor I would recommend a used OE unit before I went with a new aftermarket.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ

[str8mennis]

ok the timing belt was good the ignition module was good the coil is new and still no spark could the ignition switch be bad or the comp itself even though the comp lights comes on and then goes off and doesn not flash any codes? I’m lost again

[str8mennis]

ok i also forgot to mark the wires go on the ignition control module so if someone can’t help with that one it is a 1990 honda civic dx 1.5 i would be very appreciative

[str8mennis]

ok the wires previous stated to to the clutch just have to figure how to put them back like they were now the test for the ignition to see if the switch is bad so i am testing the blue/white wire at the ignition to see if i am getting 12v if i am doing this wrong please let me know

[jacobnbr1]

Did you put the distributor in it???

[str8mennis]

yeah still no voltage to it

[jacobnbr1]

I don’t understand how you have the ignition module wires disconnected when a complete distributor is already wired?
(should have been no reason to unhook anything)
The test we did with the white wire confirmed the pcm has the ability to fire the driver and the circuits are fine.

I know it isn’t a pcm internal problem.

[str8mennis]

ok installed a new distributor and tried to start it no spark at plug so i went to the coil nothing there so i checked for voltage and again nothing its not the timing belt it is fine and turns over good I checked the grounds all were good rechecked fuses all good could it be a relay from the ignition switch or could it be the ignition switch the blue and white wire not sending the signal to the coil to fire up

[jacobnbr1]

make sure the ground wire at the thermostat housing is not broken and is making a good connection.

[str8mennis]

the ground is good but like i was saying don’t the blue and white wire from the ignition switch give power to the coil if so how do i test it

[jacobnbr1]

Here is another diagram but it doesn’t show where the blue and white wire goes to.

[jacobnbr1]

It gets power from fuse 2 at the fuse panel in the dash. should be a 10 amp fuse.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Yea make sure you have the wires hooked up on the igniter correctly, I remember it by saying ‘blue on bottom’ because they both start with ‘b’. The rest of the wires often rest where they are suppose to be connected.

[Author]

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