Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › Question re: core (freeze) plugs
Tagged: Freeze plug
- This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 8 months ago by Lyndsey Gonzales.
-
CreatorTopic
-
May 18, 2012 at 11:00 am #452658Anonymous
Hi all –
I’m going to attempt to take some leaking core plugs out of a friend’s 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L engine this weekend and had a quick question.
-
CreatorTopic
-
AuthorReplies
-
May 18, 2012 at 11:00 am #452661
No sealant should be needed. just clean any corrosion out before setting the new freeze plugs
May 18, 2012 at 11:00 am #452659If you are doing freeze plugs at the back of the block plan on pulling the tranny. you will also need to remove the clutch/flywheel ( if stick ) or t/convertor -flex plate if auto. make sure to do all of them. to remove I usually use a long punch and hit one side so it pivots at a 90 degree and then pull em out with vise grips. To install a freeze plug install tool is best but a long extension and proper size socket can work ( be careful not to go to big on the socket size as the freeze plug will collapse slightly when installed and may trap the socket ) I would not use RTV on the freeze plugs. what I use is permatex gasket adhesive ( comes in a brush on type bottle ) acts like a lube helping the plug go in easier. then sets like a glue to keep plug tight. keep us posted.
May 18, 2012 at 11:00 am #452660I don’t think I’ve ever seen freeze plugs placed on the back of the block, are you sure that’s what’s leaking and that there are indeed freeze plugs there? From what I’ve seen they put freeze plugs in the coolant jacket on the SIDES of the block NOT the rear, the plugs in the rear are normally for oil galley plugs. You might want to check this video out for how to find coolant leaks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImIMay 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #452662AnonymousWell, I had a look in there with a borescope yesterday and it was pretty bad. There were two obvious leaks that were completely inaccessible without dropping the transmission. It turns out there are 4 core plugs on the back of the block; two are just barely accessible and two require that you either pull the engine or drop the transmission to get to them (I’m guessing the first option would be easier.) This was not going to be a 1 day job for me, so I opted out. I ended up installing a new wheel stud and a new 02 sensor, so we’re at least getting some stuff done on it. It’s going to need new rear wheel bearings at some point as well, so I have that to look forward to. I’m trying to convince the owner (a friend for about 20 years) that she’d be better off just selling the Dakota to someone who needs a huge work truck and get a cheap econobox with whatever she can make on the sale plus the money she’s put aside to do repairs. She’s a single mom with two kids and a disability that’s pretty awful, so I’m just trying to help out best I can.
Thanks for the advice on the sealant and everyone’s input. It’ll be helpful for future projects.
May 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #452663Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I don’t think I’ve ever seen freeze plugs placed on the back of the block, are you sure that’s what’s leaking and that there are indeed freeze plugs there? From what I’ve seen they put freeze plugs in the coolant jacket on the SIDES of the block NOT the rear, the plugs in the rear are normally for oil galley plugs. You might want to check this video out for how to find coolant leaks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImIMy Chevy 383 stroked has 3 plugs on sides and 2 on front and rear for coolant.
May 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #452664No better evidence than putting your eyes on it. Keep us posted. I hate to say this but it might be a job for dare I say…… stop leak?
That was hard for me.
May 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #452665AnonymousQuoted From EricTheCarGuy:
No better evidence than putting your eyes on it. Keep us posted. I hate to say this but it might be a job for dare I say…… stop leak?
That was hard for me.
You know, Eric, it’s funny you say that. I have a tube of Stop Leak that’s been sitting in my box for about 10 years and I brought it up with the truck’s owner when we were discussing possible fixes. I told her that given the overall condition of the vehicle, it might just be better to try the Stop Leak and roll the car off a cliff when it finally quits, because any repairs she commits to at this point is going to be money down the drain. That being said, she’s still going to get a quote on a repair at a shop that I recommended and if it’s above a certain amount, I think I’m going to try to get her to go with the Stop Leak as opposed to pulling the engine or tranny. If we end up using the Stop Leak and the dripping stops, I’ll report back.
May 23, 2012 at 11:00 am #452666Honestly that sounds like the best plan based on your description. Keep us posted.
February 27, 2022 at 8:12 pm #993747How did the stop leak work? Having same issue
-
AuthorReplies
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.