- This topic has 21 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Again. 1997 Honda Accord LX 2.2L SOHC 4cyl engine
I finally replaced my spark plugs and spark plug wires, i found out there is quite a bit of oil in my second well, i was told by a neighbor who is not a CERTIFIED mechanic, but could be, he told me that i would need to pay somewhere around $1100 to fix that, he said i had to get my engine dropped and something replaced after doing that, when i was told on here that i just had to replace the Valve Cover gasket and O-rings, is this true?Also, i went to pep boys to get my codes pulled in my car, and all i got was P0301 which was cylinder 1 misfire, which i believe i fixed with the new wires, my speedometer problem did not give me a CEL, so what should i do?
-
Replies
-
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=35128]I actually have a video on this repair.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYU8qtPzQOY%5B/quote%5D
I know i’ve seen this video, and my neighbor says no, your gonna need to drop the engine and fix something after that i dont remember what he said, also does anyone know any suggestions on what i should do for my speedometer?[quote=”ohemgeeman” post=35179][quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=35128]I actually have a video on this repair.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYU8qtPzQOY%5B/quote%5D
I know i’ve seen this video, and my neighbor says no, your gonna need to drop the engine and fix something after that i dont remember what he said, also does anyone know any suggestions on what i should do for my speedometer?[/quote]Oil in the plug wells is very common on hondas. sometimes it is just the seals at the top of the plug wells and sometimes it is also the seals at the bottom. oil in the wells will cause a misfire as it gets inside the plug boot and interferes with the electrical connection to the plug. there is no need to drop your engine much less pay 1100.00 dollars. either way this is not a difficult repair as Erics video shows.
I am sorry but I am unaware of the speedo prob you have. can you post it or direct me to the post and I will read it. Thank you.
********UPDATE*********
I was wrong, today my engine did the same thing with the new wires, it shook when i turned it on, and it was having trouble starting, i would turn the key and it would kind of sound like it started but it didn’t, could the shaking have something to do with the good amount of oil in my second Spark Plug well??Not yet, im going to get a valve cover gasket kit on monday, i just need to know, i am NOT going to replace my orings yet but is there any way i could mess something up by just taking the cover off to rrplace the cover gasket and the other seals?
No. I don’t think so. Just make sure you have all the supplies/tools needed before you start this job.
I have no idea what you’re friend is talking about. That said the fact that the plug keeps popping out would suggest you have a pretty large leak there which to me would indicate you’d need to do both the upper and lower seals. A spark plug wire that’s disconnected can cause a miss and a lot of performance issues so I think you should address the oil leaks and replace the wires with NGK wires and recheck for your miss.
What’s going on with the speedometer?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=35427]I have no idea what you’re friend is talking about. That said the fact that the plug keeps popping out would suggest you have a pretty large leak there which to me would indicate you’d need to do both the upper and lower seals. A spark plug wire that’s disconnected can cause a miss and a lot of performance issues so I think you should address the oil leaks and replace the wires with NGK wires and recheck for your miss.
What’s going on with the speedometer?[/quote]
Ok i am going to have to have a mechanic do the lower seals because one i don’t have the tools to do it and 2 i don’t trust myself, i have replaced my wires and plugs with NGK wires and NGK plugs, before i did that though i went to pep boys and got my codes pulled and all i got was misfire in cylinder 1, i haven’t gotten them pulled since, but my plugs are in nice and tight now, but it still shakes SOMETIMES, not all the time very few times does it shake anymore, but it still does, as for my speedo problem, i was told by you that my VSS is the problem, it full circled on me and sits at the bottom of the speedo now, when i start to move, it goes up below the stopper at 0 and bounces around there, i was told this problem should cause a CEL, but i got no code for my speedo, so i don’t know what to do, all other gauges work, and Cruise control works, so what could be wrong?I had another thing that i have wrong with my car that is also a bother to me, my front right tire, not the tire itself but the bearing/disk whatever that whole thing is called, it squeaks, when i’m driving next to a building i can hear it and when i lightly tap my brakes i can hear it, any ideas?
Also with my oil leak i posted a while back, i cleaned the outside of my oil pan and while doing that i came to discover that there are some missing bolts, i am assuming this is a problem but it is not causing my leak, there is a crack on the bottom of it, i am assuming the previous owner bottomed out the car so bad that it cracked the pan, its about a inch and a half long, but only the center leaks, you can see it build up than drip, am i best off replacing the ENTIRE pan itself and getting a oil pan gasket, because it looks like this pan is held on only with sealer or RTV what ever it is called. If i have to replace it, do you (Eric)have a video on the process of removing an oil pan? I have heard i have to detach my exhaust on the bottom of my car to release it.
The squeaking could be as simple as replacing ur brakes. Have you checked them? Also, ur rotor, if that’s the “disc” you’re referring to, could be scraping against the dust shield that sits behind it. Best thing to do is to raise the front of the vehicle and put it on some jacks, put it in drive (or you can spin the rotors by hand) and listen for the noise.
As for your concern about the exhaust having to be dropped, the answer is most likely. I’ve done two on an F series and I had to drop the exhaust a little. You can just take the hangers off of the rubber boots though. That should give you enough clearance. Eric did this in his most recent video when he replaced the O2 sensor on the RL. Hope this helps!
As for the shaking lets start with fixing the oil leaks and we’ll get back to that, I actually have an entire ‘speech’ prepared for that one.
Speed sensor problems are VERY common on Honda’s and yours sounds very much like a speed sensor problem. You can verify this by unplugging the sensor and taking it for a drive, if the needle no longer bounces then it’s likely you need a speed sensor.
I cringe when I hear of that much RTV being used on an oil pan. All I have to say is settle in because you need to clean ALL of that off before installing a new gasket and pan. DO NOT use RTV in the same way, in fact all you’ll need is small dabs at the corners where it goes over the crankshaft ‘hump’. Yes you do have to drop the exhaust to get the pan out but it’s not that bad, just remove the bracket on the back of the engine as well because the pipe won’t drop down otherwise. I don’t have a video on this yet but when the opportunity arises I’ll be on that.
I suspect you have cheap brake pads on there. Cheap pads yield cheap results and noise is at the top of that list. I recommend a set of Akibono ceramics to replace them. Don’t put off the shelf auto part store pads on there or you’ll be in the same situation.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=35811]As for the shaking lets start with fixing the oil leaks and we’ll get back to that, I actually have an entire ‘speech’ prepared for that one.
Speed sensor problems are VERY common on Honda’s and yours sounds very much like a speed sensor problem. You can verify this by unplugging the sensor and taking it for a drive, if the needle no longer bounces then it’s likely you need a speed sensor.
I cringe when I hear of that much RTV being used on an oil pan. All I have to say is settle in because you need to clean ALL of that off before installing a new gasket and pan. DO NOT use RTV in the same way, in fact all you’ll need is small dabs at the corners where it goes over the crankshaft ‘hump’. Yes you do have to drop the exhaust to get the pan out but it’s not that bad, just remove the bracket on the back of the engine as well because the pipe won’t drop down otherwise. I don’t have a video on this yet but when the opportunity arises I’ll be on that.
I suspect you have cheap brake pads on there. Cheap pads yield cheap results and noise is at the top of that list. I recommend a set of Akibono ceramics to replace them. Don’t put off the shelf auto part store pads on there or you’ll be in the same situation.[/quote]
Alright, i’ll be heading to my closest honda dealer and acquiring a valve cover gasket kit, and when i have all that stuff replaced i’ll repost on if my engine shakes or not.
As for my speed sensor, i am not really sure how i am going to get to it, i looked up where it is on my car but i can’t see it let alone unplug it, but i will definitely keep looking and i will be ordering a new speed sensor anyway just due to the fact they go bad on hondas.
With the Oil Pan, from what i can tell, there is a LOT of RTV where the pan meets the car, it’s hard to tell because everything is black down there due to the oil all over my pan. I will also be ordering a new pan and gasket and when i remove the old one i will again post if it was indeed RTV, i was not the one to put any RTV on the pan.
As for any other things, i have done nothing but change the wires and plugs and put a new tire on the car, the rest was there on the car when i bought it, so i will look at those breaks and get them when i can.
There was another “noise” i’ve been hearing but i saw your video on Wheel Bearings and the sound they make, and can tell that it is the exact same sound from the videos but i will not touch that yet, i’m not worried about that right now.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.