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TIA?
Link?
That’s what I was taught in school. Best treads up front. Makes sense too. If you’re gonna have a blow out, chances are it will be the lowest tread. I’d rather have that tire in the back so that I can still try to steer the thing.
Also, front tires always wear out faster…
Tire Industry Association
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=52
If you were taught that the best go on the front you were taught wrong.
[quote=”brokemechanic3000″ post=82828]Tire Industry Association
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=52
If you were taught that the best go on the front you were taught wrong.[/quote]
Holy shit. I’ve gone to several tire specialty stores, and they’ve all agreed with me. I’m just shocked right now
Any hyundai warranty which is most of what you get at hyundai since you have 10-100,000 powertrain 5-60,000 general warranty. Almost everything pays .3 under hyundai warranty it seems like. I would like to meat the guy who can R&R an 2011 sonata transmission in 4.0hrs. I also dislike evap systems as a whole.
LOL… 4 hours for Removing, Re-paring, Rebuilding, and re-installing a transmission?
Who sets those flat-rates?
How much time does it really take?
We dont rebuild any transmissions other than manual trans at the hyundai dealer. That time is remove replace to off fluid then relearn adaptives which entails going up through the gears and back down through the gears 10 times per hyundai. I can probably do it in 5 hours but that is rushing it plus keep in mind i have 2 different sets of paperwork i have to fill out one is a transmission diagnostic sheet and the other is the core return sheet. Both of which are easier to fill out when i have both trannies sitting on the ground so i can get all the numbers off them. I was told at the training cent the times a re figured in korea using hand tools. they go through the job multiple time while being timed. the thing is all the tools they need are laid out in front of them nothing more or less and the clock is only running when the tool is in use. so when the tool comes off the bolt or nut to change out tools clock stops then is started again once another tool is put on the project at hand. Otherwords were getting ripped off.
Distributor or spark plug wires on 94-01 dodge rams, they stick the motor so far back in the engine bay that the distributor is right underneath the cowl and hard to get to. even thought there’s plenty of room to move the engine further forward. I personally own one of these trucks, love the truck, love the motor, love the performance, hate working on it. on the other hand doing anything on the front of the motor is wicked easy because you have nearly a foot of room to work as soon as you remove the fan cover. had to do the water pump and serpentine belt a few months ago and arguably the easiest i have ever done. Also doing valve cover gaskets on a 3.8 ford v6. Pretty much gotta remove the intake to get the valve covers off
Chevypower, I just love your insites and your style. If I let myself I could tell stories just the way you do. You made me laugh for the first time this week and I’m gonna thank you for that.
Bout everything you said is true and is not really funny while you’re going through it.
[quote=”wysetech” post=84560]Chevypower, I just love your insites and your style. If I let myself I could tell stories just the way you do. You made me laugh for the first time this week and I’m gonna thank you for that.
Bout everything you said is true and is not really funny while you’re going through it.[/quote]
Well, thanks I guess. Glad somebody got a kick out of it.
Can y’all tell that I have anger management issues? It’s pretty sad when you get kicked out of anger management programs time & time again…
Oh yea, I want to hear those stories too
Removing and replacing the pressure line and tubing on JCB 8040 mini-excavators. Drain the hydraulic tank, drain the fuel tank, remove the counter weight, lift the function manifold up, remove 3 hoses, remove cab bolts and slide cab off to the side, remove body plating to access hold down studs, remove the engine cover, disconnect hose off the back of the pump with 1 1/4″ crows foot and 3 long extensions, and then twist and man-handle the thing out.
That steel line is an $85 part, but calls for 12-15 hours of labor. Usually can get them done in a day if you are really motivated, and have an A Frame or a crane
Thats the function manifold.
Not all warranty work is bad ETCG…I know you made out on those odyssey timing belt tensioners as I did on the Altima/Maxima rear subframe recalls. Most of it sux, just sayin there is a silver lining every now and then
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