Here’s a step-by-step as best as I can remember it. It’s been a long time since I replaced an axle on one of those cars, so I may forget a step or two. You should be able to puzzle through it though. This is after you get the car up on jack stands and the front wheel off.
Remove the axle nut, then unbolt the lower control arm from the car. I believe that it’s three bolts. This won’t affect the alignment, as the arm will only fit in one place and the only adjustment on the car is front toe. Once the LCA is flapping in the breeze, you should be able to pull the knuckle far enough away from the car to get the axle shaft out of the hub. Just let it hang for the time being. Following the axle from the hub to the transmission, you should find a bearing that’s attached to a bracket that’s attached to the engine. There are three bolts around the outer perimeter of that bearing, with the bolt heads facing toward the wheel. Remove those bolts and set them someplace where you won’t lose them. Make sure that the bearing will spin independent of the bracket it was bolted to. If it’s corroded to the bracket, bash on the bearing with a hammer until it moves. It’s going in the trash anyway, so don’t worry about hurting it. After the bearing is moving freely, get back out from under the car, grab hold of the outer CV joint and pull. It should slide out of the car easily. There is a small metal seal on the transmission end of the axle that will have to get transferred onto the replacement axle. Tap it off the old axle with a soft-faced mallet. I’ve got a plastic hammer specifically for that sort of thing. Tap the seal onto the replacement axle. Installation is reverse of removal. I like to put some anti-seize on the bearing where it goes into the bracket, as well as on the splines that go into the hub in the knuckle, for ease of future disassembly.