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Hi guys,
I got some cancerous rust on my car i’m looking to dremmel down to bare metal and paint over, but I got a triangle about 3 inches long, with the base being about 1.5-2″ back of the wheel well.
THIS ISN’T MY CAR, but pretty much picture that back bubble (pink arrow) plus 3-4 years of decay, rusted through.
Whats the best product to use for that once I get all the rust out?
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If all rust been cut removed only
Bare metal them you will need etch primer.
Not just primer just ask shop for etch primer.
These days there’s so much products in market
You can get 2 in 1 etch ,basically the black primer or grey
That comes with brand new part like fender panel is 2 in 1 .
Just rub and paint
Some people don’t even rub back if the etch looks good
They just spray sealer and them they paint color right over.
If you have pitted metal more them likely you still have some rust
In the pitted areas so best use rust converter normal has built in etch
Just follow instructions in canBondo. James Bondo. Licensed to fill.
I think you’ll find a Dremel tool is a bit small and light-duty for what you’re planning.
Honestly, the best body repairs consist of replacing bad metal with good metal. Body fill was only ever meant to smooth out minor irregularities for quick and easy finishing prior to paint, it really isn’t supposed to be a replacement for metal.
The above mentioned advice is good stuff.
My two cents.
Bondo brand anything I avoid like the plague. The red stuff stays wet forever and can fall off years after the repair if you go over a speed bump a little too fast.
Use a polyester based filler, like zgrip. It dries in normal temps in about 15-20 minutes and sands out very nicely.
Ok, the above stuff should have been at the end.
The rust you can see is only part of it. You can pick up a cheap 4.5 angle grinder for about $30 or so, then get a wire cup brush that fits it. Grind the paint away to the metal. Do this outward from the middle until you no longer see rust. If you can replace the panel by bolting, unbolting, that is the easiest, like a front fender. If not, then try to find as much of that rusted panel as you can to replace it with.
Welding is common for replacing it, but there are structural adhesives that are great. There is a kind that’s made by 3m, it’s black in a white caulking tube and you use a caulking gun to apply it. It’s used to glue some Corvette panels together. It dries rock hard in about 30 minutes and requires a hammer and chisel to remove it. That means its strong.
Body filler is only to be used in thin bits. If you need more than 1/8 inch of filler, than you need to work the panel out more first.
Once you are down to bare metal, I would say use a sealing primer on all bare surfaces first. Then use filler, then a building primer, then etching primer, then paint it with UV resistant clear coat. The clear coat is available in a rattle can.
Regular parts stores will not have your best options. Go through your local yellow pages under auto, then look for autobody supplies.
Sorry for being long winded. There are videos on YouTube with lots of advice, but a large amount of it is hatchet or ghetto style, which means it won’t last.
After you used sealing primer, then glued or welded in the new material, then used filler and have a few layers of building primer on it, you will need to do wet sanding. This involves Emory cloth or 440 grit or higher sand paper and a bucket of water. At this stage, you have sanded the building primer down to make the panel feel great and look right in the light. After every two layers of color you lay on, gently wet sand, clean again, paint again, dry, then wet sand again. Do that for a few layers, then clean and dry it, then do at least 3 layers of clear coat with wet sanding afterwords. If you skip the wet sanding bits, the paint could flake off in 1-2 years. Wet sanding between layers is the real secret to a show quality finish that lasts.
Clear coat, even in warm climates, takes at least 30 days to fully cure. That means once your done, don’t power wash or wax it for at least a month.
Dremell tools are fun for very small hobby stuff. Even the most expensive ones will slow you down, frustrate you and cause shoddy mistakes.
If this looks like a lot, that’s because it is. This is why a decent quality paint job or repair work costs real money. It’s labor intensive. Somenthink that if parts doesn’t cost much, then the repair should be cheap. Cheap body work equals flaking paint and overall poor quality.
Good luck on your first autobody adventure!
So I go on youtube looking for small rust repairs on the cheap
though pasting link making it easy for you.
I have seen a few videos on youtube on how to fix small rust and is all big laugh.
So no point pasting link.worst part about the videos is that there well know brands like 3M etc
Showing you how to do repair on outside bonnet .What about inside bonnet LOL ?
Them another video only this video the guy could have done great job cause is a fender no double skin
Like a bonnet I will post link so you know what im talking about
Rust needs to be cut or grinded off for best results brush converter on places you can’t get to or metal is just to fin.To me the best and most commonly used is Eric video
The only thing about Eric video is he used aerosol spray
Not sure if that was rust converter or something else.
Cause converter has built in acid and is normally in plastic container.
But everything else was good in videoYes you can. Bondo is the worst body filler on the market. Use polyester based filler if you are ant filler that dries all the way thru. Bondo stays wet in the middle for years. Hit a bump too hard and a wet lumo of paint covered bondo falls off. Absolute garbage.
I guess Bondo and how to use it is kind of a religion.
Personally, I prefer to use lead to fill any imperfections and I only use products like Bondo for the finishing surface to smoothe out small imperfections.
To use lead correctly, takes some practice though. Another thing is, it requires a clean rustfree surface to work properly. It CAN however, fill smaller holes and holds better than any Bondo like product
I’ve no use for lead mostly because it’s toxic and lots of modern cars aren’t steel much anymore. When I use body filler, I just get zgrip. It’s a polyester based filler that dries solid in normal weather within 15-20 minutes, then it can be finish sanded and primed and painted right away. Bondo litteraly never dries in the middle. Zgrip is also very strong to adhere to the surface and it’s light weight. I just follow the basic rules of not applying more than 1/8 inch deep. If it needs more then that means the panel wasn’t worked out enough. Some feel that body filler is an easy fix all, but I know that real body work is way more involved.
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