suggestions for first car?

[Nankumar Seewdat]

So basically I am looking to buy my first manual transmission car. I have driven a manual before but that car has long passed into car heaven 🙁 . It has been a while but i think i can still handle it. I have about $2000 saved up and about $3000 to borrow from my parents (i would like to avoid that). I am 18 years old and just got out of high school. I was looking for something easy to work on, decent aftermarket parts supply, decent power (not looking to win drag races, just something that feels a bit fast), fun to throw around corners. I was looking into getting a 1995 honda civic hatchback, but i am open to suggestions.

Topic

[Lorrin Barth]

The newer the better, the lower the miles the better. Other than that, since you are figuring on working on it yourself, spend most of your shopping time looking under the hood, seeing how easy things are to reach.

Once you get the car, drive like your mother is behind the wheel. The car will last a long time because you won’t be wrecking it.

[Joseph Peoples]

New and low miles is one way to go. And if you weren’t planning on working on it yourself, I would concur. But if you want something simple and easy to work on, but still fun to drive, look into a 60’s or early 70’s midsize or pony car. A six cyl. Mustang, 65 to 68, Camaro,2nd gen Nova, etc. in decent shape, could be purchased within your budget. Just check it thoroughly for rust, and have someone check out the suspension and brakes. Cars don’t get much easier to work on that this, and if you keep things reasonable, you won’t lose any money on one either.

Good luck to you. And welcome to a great hobby.

Edit: I should ask what type of work you plan on doing yourself. A late model civic would be an excellent vehicle, except that they are somewhat complicated. My suggestions were assuming you want to do mechanical work. If you only want to change stereos, put on body kits, etc. I would resend my advise.

[Kenneth]

I think the Honda civic is an excellent idea. But you have to find one that’s un molested. That can be tough to find in a standard.

[Matthew]

I would recommend a Daewoo of any kind really ive had mine for 14 years and the only problems ive had with it was the thermostat needing replacing. I also had to get new brake lines as those blew out on me (but i think that is because it is only driven on city streets) spite what people say they are rock solid. There is the Daewoo Lanos (which should cost less than 2 grand these days, assuming you find one), Daewoo Nubira and Laganza which are rarer than the Lanos all 3 are in auto and manual. Theres also the “Current” Daewoo’s on the market that people dont know. The Daewoo Kalos is another good one (Chevy Aveo from 2004-2012 and Chevy Sonic from 2013-Present) There is also the new Daewoo Matiz (which is probably well over your price range), There is also the 2010-Current Daewoo Lacetti-Premiere (Chevy Cruze) again probably above your range. If you want a car in your price range i would suggest any of the Daewoo branded cars as all are around 2000 value or a Chevy Aveo.

[Matthew]

[quote=”Kenneth07ex” post=116717]I think the Honda civic is an excellent idea. But you have to find one that’s un molested. That can be tough to find in a standard.[/quote]
How do you “Molest” a car?

[Kenneth]

[quote=”Matthew2014″ post=117076][quote=”Kenneth07ex” post=116717]I think the Honda civic is an excellent idea. But you have to find one that’s un molested. That can be tough to find in a standard.[/quote]
How do you “Molest” a car?[/quote]

A car is considered “molested ” when someone puts after market mods on it. Some mods aren’t bad, especially if it’s something you like. But if the previous owner cuts out the fender well, to put on 18 in. Wheels that rub the fenders when turning, or going over small bumps, that isn’t good. Another example is if they did a hack job, on the wiring, to install an after market radio. If they’ve bypassed fuses to get their cooling fan, or power windows to work, etc.

[Matthew]

I have a aftermarket radio, Shift Knob, Pedal covers, License Plate frames and Valve Stem caps on the wheels. Is my car “Molested”?

[Kenneth]

[quote=”Matthew2014″ post=117093]I have a aftermarket radio, Shift Knob, Pedal covers, License Plate frames and Valve Stem caps on the wheels. Is my car “Molested”?[/quote]
Did you do a hack job putting it in?
Do your over size wheels rub the fenders?
Do you have electrical issues, because you’ve bypassed factory wiring?
If you’ve got any or all of these issues, then yes, I’d say its been molested.

[Matthew]

[quote=”Kenneth07ex” post=117094][quote=”Matthew2014″ post=117093]I have a aftermarket radio, Shift Knob, Pedal covers, License Plate frames and Valve Stem caps on the wheels. Is my car “Molested”?[/quote]
Did you do a hack job putting it in?
Do your over size wheels rub the fenders?
Do you have electrical issues, because you’ve bypassed factory wiring?
If you’ve got any or all of these issues, then yes, I’d say its been molested.[/quote]

No but i did have to rewire the “POWER” button that was on the shifter for installing a aftermarket one. And i do plan on rewiring and re-arranging the wiring in the tail lights to have Turn signal/reverse light switchback LEDs the rims are stock but i do plan on better hubcaps.

[none]

$2000 means you’re buying a used car. That means you’re likely going to buy your first can of worms no matter what make or model you’re going to buy. I’ve thrown quite a few estimates at customers just to hear them say, “The car isn’t worth that much. I’m just going to trade it in.” This means that in many cases, buying a used car is buying other people’s problems; especially for your budget. There’s a fantastic chance that you’re going to burn up your $2000 and then immediately need to drop another grand on some upkeep.

For you, Phoenix, I’d suggest 96 or newer cars for OBDII compliance. When it’s time for you to start asking questions about codes & troubleshooting, OBDI can be somewhat obscure just finding the DLC and a scan tool to connect to it. I’d strongly suggest an Asian car over an American car. I hate saying this, but the Asians build a better car. At least that’s my experience anyway. I have a harder time finding work to sell on Asian cars than American cars. I feel like should be easier for you to find a car with a manual in the Asian market too. I couldn’t tell you who actually uses the most manual transmissions in their cars, I just know I personally see more manual transmissions in Asian cars.

DO NOT choose a car from the 60’s or 70’s if you need an immediate daily driver. An old pony car for less than 2K is a PROJECT CAR. It’s that plain and simple.

Pick a car that’s got high production value. That means a car they made millions upon millions of. No offense to Matthew, but something like a Daewoo is playing with fire for Phoenix. That’s a car that’s not on every street corner. If Phoenix buys one that’s not as perfect as yours, he’s waiting days for parts. If he lives in a larger city that’s got a Daewoo dealership, he might be ok. Just the same, the aftermarket probably doesn’t support a car like that very well here so he’s also more likely to be paying blood for a dealer part.

Kenneth makes a great point about an unmolested car. I’ve seen far too many kids bring in their car with their ‘Fast and Furious’ wet dream under the hood to find it was done very poorly. The necessary repairs have been ignored in favor of a new stereo and amp. It’s been cobbled and hacked together and you’re just not going to keep up to the repairs the car needs. Or it was done well, but now it’s just used up. (Performance and longevity usually don’t go hand in hand. Now you’re back in project car land.) Even if done well, modded cars can hinder your ability to find and use regular production replacement parts when they’re needed. Find one as close to stock as possible. Like I said earlier, you’re already buying other people’s problems.

Whatever car you decide to buy, get it evaluated first. A lot of shops will do some kind of free inspection or evaluation. Each shop will have its own set of rules for it so ask that shop up front what their policies are. I strongly suggest you don’t buy a car without getting it inspected. It’s not enough for a guy to think the car looks ok. I’d say that you are going to wind up borrowing some money from your folks for the afformentioned upkeep. Find the car that’s going to minimize what you do have to borrow from them.

Good Luck.

[Lorrin Barth]

Some vehicles get extensively modified. They may run great, maybe way better or more powerful than stock. But when a second owner comes along with no idea how to maintain or adjust this aftermarket equipment there’s problems.

[Matthew]

[quote=”no_common_sense” post=117098]No offense to Matthew, but something like a Daewoo is playing with fire for Phoenix. That’s a car that’s not on every street corner. If Phoenix buys one that’s not as perfect as yours, he’s waiting days for parts. If he lives in a larger city that’s got a Daewoo dealership, he might be ok. Just the same, the aftermarket probably doesn’t support a car like that very well here so he’s also more likely to be paying blood for a dealer part[/quote]
I understand that. That is also why i mentioned the Aveo. There is Daewoo’s on the street to this day they are just marketed as GMs. For example if he got a Lanos pretty much everything from a 2004-2008 Aveo (parts wise) are the same as the Daewoo Kalos (Aveo) is the successor to the Lanos. Even the engine is the same and parts including Speakers, Stereo, bulbs all work on the Lanos the only downfall is that Aveo has a bigger (and better) aftermarket. I have no problems getting Daewoo Parts. I just goto AutoZone the stock most of what you need and if they dont have it u wait a day two days tops for them to get the part in. Finding a newer than a 1998 for 2000 or under UNLESS its a Daewoo (such as a 2004-2007 Kalos (Aveo)) is not gonna be a easy task and wanting one that is a stick slims the chances even more of course that depends on the area you live in and how far you are willing to travel to find it.

NOTE: Never buy from private parties. More often than not they are selling it BECAUSE it has nothing but problems with it, If it didnt, they wouldnt be selling it. Search dealers your best bet is finding a Salvage dealer if you have one that sells fixed up and completely running and driving cars for a few 100 to a few thousand.

[Matthew]

[quote=”barneyb” post=117107]Some vehicles get extensively modified. They may run great, maybe way better or more powerful than stock. But when a second owner comes along with no idea how to maintain or adjust this aftermarket equipment there’s problems.[/quote]

That’s the main reason that you dont do ANYTHING to the car that is not reversible. For my car all my mods i plan to do to it will be reversible as if the cars totaled out i want my aftermarket parts for my next car. I plan on doing NOTHING to the engine bay except a Cold Air Intake and a AutoTherm Washer fluid heater all of which is reversible. My current mods are all reversible.

[Erin]

With many cars there is a stereotype. You also have to consider WHO is selling it.
Look around craigslist and you will see what I mean. A few examples –

For some odd reason, good ol boys think Camaros and firebirds need a new engine. They will include the engine for another $500, but they cannot give you the title cause the previous owner went to prison before signing it over (yes I actually saw an ad that said this. I swear to, well, whatever you believe is the higher power). Trans might slip a bit but they drove it across the country no problems… :dry:

Hondas tend to get “molested” but you will know this right away because the owner will proudly brag about all the mods. Loud exhausts add a good 20 horsepower, right? So if it looks stock, you are usually safe. With performance mods – some kid who watched too much fast and furious has no real idea what the hell he is doing. He is not an engineer and doesn’t know how that performance ignition system or some weird looking air intake will screw up other things.

Buick – Grandpa drove it to and from church on Sunday and to the doctor. Never over 35 mph, always garaged, professionally maintained.

Cavalier or Neon – The daughter drove it while in college. Professionally maintained each time something finally broke.

Avoid those buy here pay here places. Do NOT get into debt with them, really, DON’T. Places like Carplex, Oak Motors, JD Byrider… they look impressive but you are begging for trouble with them. No, just… no.

So for what kind to get – Hondas are usually a safe bet (save for 99-03 automatics). And they are reasonably easy to work on (aside the damn timing belt)
Also look on carcomplaints.com to get an idea of what you may run into.

Any non-america car will probably give less grief.

[Matthew]

[quote=”Summer_Night” post=117200]

Buick – Grandpa drove it to and from church on Sunday and to the doctor. Never over 35 mph, always garaged, professionally maintained.[/quote]
What’s wrong with that?

[quote=”Summer_Night” post=117200]Any non-america car will probably give less grief.[/quote]
Isn’t America made suppose to be “Better” Quality?

Also a Hayundai or a Kia should be good too. Never here complaints about Subaru’s either. But just like honda’s finding an unmolested Subie can be a problem too.

[Author]

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