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[quote=”jeffrey” post=46315]What about the magnets on the oil filter thing? Is that something worth doing or just witchcraft?[/quote]
those were only useful when engines were made of ferrous metals, not so much anymore.
[quote=”Cabbey” post=46260]i’m using royal purple in my car so it’s full synthetic, the dirt you see in the synthetic oil is the sludge getting cleaned out from the engine not the oil itself, after a few filter changes you see that it’ll become clear again, i use the fram filter for synthetic oil, and i tell you the oil is the same color as when it goes in.
here is a link if you ant an oil analysis done, run synthetic for a year then send off a sample, and see the results for yourself.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php [/quote]
did they test the pH of your oil? even though the oil doesnt break down, it may become acidic which is obviously bad. different oils have difference base numbers though, eg amsoil is apparently really high.
[quote=”SpawnedX” post=46080]There is no science to support that synthetic is going to cause leaks or more noise. What seems, and seems to be proven more likely, is that the engine was sludged up and worn and basically that sludge was taken up all the space that your seals no longer did and then when synthetic, which is generally much higher in detergents, came in, it started cleaning up that sludge and eventually the seals were left on their own to do the job.
Switching to synthetic and getting leaks and noises generally tells you, your car was not well maintained.[/quote]
Anothe one on my teem…
A thought around synthetic being more leak prone:
Clearances are greater when an engine is cold. And conventional oil is thicker when cold. So it seems to me that earlier/older/more-worn engines could have clearances that when cold would allow synthetic past but not conventional oil. As the engine heats up the clearances tighten up, preventing oil seepage even though the oil flows much better at the higher temperatures.That’s not true. All oils are rated in weight cold and warm. The 5w in 5w-30 is the cold weight, so 5w-30 synthetic or conventional, has the same viscosity cold.
[quote=”SpawnedX” post=46560]That’s not true. All oils are rated in weight cold and warm. The 5w in 5w-30 is the cold weight, so 5w-30 synthetic or conventional, has the same viscosity cold.[/quote]
Um, no. See the chart in the middle of this page:
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/long-engine-life.phpYour chart is misleading.
-40 F is well below the temperature range that the viscosity ratings on oil are aimed at, in fact any one with your best interests at heart would tell you at -40 F, don’t even start your car, no matter the oil.
But what do you expect from an advertisement.
The point is that conventional oil is much more viscous at lower temperatures.
If you don’t believe Amsoil’s data, you can read here:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/23715/conventional-vs-synthetic-oil
or here:
http://motoroilbible.com/motor-oil-bible-first-chapter.phpAnd as for starting cars in the cold…. I have to admit that where I live it doesn’t get all the way down to -40…. although right now the low is -30C, which is about -23F.
Gents:
The leak prone nature of synthetic based versus mineral based engine oils has very little to do with viscosity and much to do with elastomer seal and gasketing materials compatibility. Elastomers can shrink or swell in response to the nature of the “solvent” or oil that they are exposed to. A swollen seal can be weak and tear and wear rapidly. A shrunken seal can grip less firmly and leak.
Seal elastomer compatibility is part of the oil formulator’s objectives. But that doesn’t mean they get it right all the time.
[quote=”Noisy” post=46583]The point is that conventional oil is much more viscous at lower temperatures.
If you don’t believe Amsoil’s data, you can read here:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/23715/conventional-vs-synthetic-oil
or here:
http://motoroilbible.com/motor-oil-bible-first-chapter.phpAnd as for starting cars in the cold…. I have to admit that where I live it doesn’t get all the way down to -40…. although right now the low is -30C, which is about -23F.[/quote]
Thank you, these links are very interesting (even the one from amsoil was by the way 😉 )
I see now that a syntetic lubricant not only dissolves the sludge better, but also allows the engine to produce less sludge , since the oil does not coke so much (for example in the turbine bearing or on the valve stems) as the regular-standard-nonsyntetic one does much more.
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
[quote=”Noisy” post=46566][quote=”SpawnedX” post=46560]That’s not true. All oils are rated in weight cold and warm. The 5w in 5w-30 is the cold weight, so 5w-30 synthetic or conventional, has the same viscosity cold.[/quote]
Um, no. See the chart in the middle of this page:
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/long-engine-life.php%5B/quote%5DI agree the donat rating does not tell you how good an oil is just that it passed a test but how good does it pass the test you could have an A+ passing or C- (Using sochool grades) both pass but not both are as good.
I Wee all car lovers like the best for Our cars so maybe it is an over kill to use Full Syntec Oil but it is my car and I whant to protect it as good as I can. but if you live on extreame weather temps I sugest you use Full Syntec (If you can pay for it) or if you do Extreame with your vehice.
It have bean said that better Oil does not mean extended changes and I agree but if you have an Oil that is better will then last longer and if not on extreame condition will be true.
I Use Mobile One Extender Performence Full Syntetic wich State on the bottle it is good for 15K miles and my Toyota tacoma says to change it evry 5K and to use full syntec so I go 7 to 10K with this oil and when I chenge it it still have the feel of a new Oil
Thats my 5 Cents on the matter.
David…
If you were to use fully synthetic oil for the first time and it started leaking, would it stop if you again replaced it with regular conventional oil or is it irreversible?
Glad I have Mobil 1 full synthetic in my vehicles.Its 11 degrees
in New Jersey. with the wind chill 0 to -5 degrees and my truck sleeps
outside. Not to worry though. oil upon start up. Dam its cold Brrrrr 🙂Hi, guys!
Did you notice that Mobil 1 oil is ACEA rated A1/B1/A5/B5. But majority of engines require ACEA A3/B3/B4.
A1/A5 oil has a lower viscosity! So, use it only in proper engines!It’s real easy to get lost with all the new oil specs.
for example most modern GM motors need dexos2 certified oil and not just the API spec. The oil has become another major part of these new engines efficiency. just like VW/BMW and many other manufacturers only recommend oils tested by them. You risk losing your warrenty using other oils even if they are good enough or better than required.
However there are plenty of fully synthetics out there designed with older cars in mind with the A3/b3 b4 specs. Mobil 1 have many synthetics to meat the various specs, also getting there oils certified by all major the manufacturers probably adds to the price too.
It’s never entirely straight forward.
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