Tips tricks and tooling For VAG vehicles

[Jon Hart]

Hey guys new face around here and come looking for some advise if we have any VAG techs here Starting a new job next week as a Tech for a SEAT dealership and really just looking for any advise people have for me that you wished you’d had when you started 😛

Worked in dealerships before but really struggling to make any progress in getting manufacturer training Worked at a main dealer before this and spent most of the year there but no training ever came not even basic stuff so I packed my box up and moved hopefully it was the right call lol

Topic

[James O’Hara]

You are going to need triple square impact sockets for VW and Audi. I would also get a couple chromes that you can knock out of the socket and buy the double box end that will fit on the bit to be able to hit it with a hammer. It was the only way I was able to get my rear caliper mounting brackets off to get to my rotor.

Another thing is a lot of the reg obd tools have issues with the german cars and I do mean a lot. So think about that before you get a generic reader. They are either about to or just came out with a new software program for the dealers. Though most people were using http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/ in dealerships before that as it worked so much better then the stock scan tools lol.

Be aware all german cars are plagued with electrical issues. Especially VW I mean holy hell they wrapped my wires for the washer spray nozzles directly to the piping for the washer fluid no loom no nothing just a lot of electrical tape. They are pretty easy to work on as long as you have a lift.

Be aware of bolts that look almost like aluminum. They are a composite material and don’t just like to strip out they loooooooovvvvvvveeeeee it. Also make sure you are all the way seated with the triple squares or you will hate life and will be buying a drill doctor. You are also going to need some pretty big allens for drain pans for transmissions but, wait till you get there to get sizes. I needed a 50mm (Not positive if it was that or more) L-Key to get the drain bolt out of my trans which ironically cannot be filled from the fill port on the side without a special machine.

They also have a love affair with torx fasteners. Here’s a torx, there’s a torx every where a torx torx oh wait thats a triple square crap and I rounded it. You need torx bits just to drop the skid plates under the cars. They also tend to have the metal clips break in them and get jammed up because people just love to use impacts on t-25s no I don’t know why.

Be aware the plastic for the intake boxes/plenums is a soft plastic easily broken if you use an air ratchet so be mindful. That and almost every TDI that comes in if you remove he valve cover will gift you with several hours of work at least for the BRM motors which was in the 2005.5 Jettas at least.

The windows require factory wiper blades or it will scratch the outer surface. This is not bs if you look at my windshield it will confirm it. Also the lenses for the lights fog up real good on them. So those are some things to look for.

And that’s about all there is to say about that.

[Jon Hart]

Thank you very much for the Very informative reply 🙂

triple square are Multisplines here i belive I have already ended up buying a set when i had to swap out driveshafts on an audi a3

It’s a main dealer so manufacturer scan tools will be around at least got my own but it wont do everything

I’ve heard of the electrical issues and it’s not my strong suit but that’s something to learn i guess 😛

Didn’t know about the bolts that all sounds awful lol

Torx i dont mind so much Vaux/Opel have the same love affair with Torx everything is a torx tend to use my 10.8v impact on those simply due to time especially with the valance panels needing about 16 bolts to remove them

I’ll watch out for the air boxes and what the issue with the BRM motors? And how far should i run when they come in?

Wipers are luckily parts departments fault Aslong as i’ve fitted it correctly It’s up to them to get decent parts 😛

[James O’Hara]

The BRM top end is really easy to work on tbh you just need to retime the cams afterwards which if you set it to TDC before you start shouldn’t be bad at all. I unfortunately have one as my daily so I know a fair amount about them then add they are a diesel and I can fix just about anything on them sings if I only had a lift.

A good cheat for you is if the mounts break on the front sway bar if you take your time and get the right size drill bit you can drill out the factory clamp rivet nut and reuse it and swap the mounts out. Where if you need to replace the bar I think it paid 12 hrs book time you have to drop so much stuff to get at it.

Also anything with a turbo check the pipe coming off the turbo to the intercooler/charge air cooler for oil. Certain brands allow a certain amount but, any oil in there is a sign the turbo seal is going. It is another thing TDIs are known for. But, do not try and rebuild one just replace. If they want it rebuilt push it onto another tech. They are VGT turbos and are a pain in the butt, to clean properly.

[Jon Hart]

Some great advise thanks, I’m Hoping they’ll start me off on light duty while I under go manufacturer training I don’t mind getting stuck in but it’s stressful as hell trying to maintain efficiency on jobs you’ve never done.

[Jamie]

VAG is like any other major auto group’s cars. For example, If you spend enough time working on Ford and Ford owned cars you become immune to their pain in the ass issues and fixes. It just becomes the norm. Any of the pain in the ass things any VW product has is no more pain in the ass than some of the things I find to be truley pain full on a Honda.

On a side note, Hope the career path change works for you! We don’t get any SEAT cars over here.

[James O’Hara]

I understand what you are trying to say but, some issues are just plain easier to deal with then others.

[Author]

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