VIDEO ON ALTERNATOR AND BATEERY ISSUES

[Alex]

HOW ABOUT BATTERY OPEN VOLTAGE VALUES TO CONSIDER WITH REGARD TO ALTERNATOR? THE ALTERNATOR IS OFTEN REPLACED MORE THEN TWICE BECAUSE THE BATTERY WAS NOT CAREFULLY EXAMINE AND AN ELECTRON FLOW TEST WAS NEVER DONE ON THE NEGATIVE CABLE. THESE MISSES CAN CAUSE THE ALTERNATOR TO STAY STUCK ON 28 AMP DRAWS OR 50 AMPS DRAWS NEVER DROPPING DOWN TO .88 AMPS OR .01 AS YOU SAID IN YOUR VIDEO OVER HEATING THE ALTERNATOR BURNING THE DIODES EVEN WHEN A BAD BATTERY IS READING 12.66V VOLTS OR HIGHER.

COULD YOU ERIC, VERIFY THESE VALUES FOR ME, A BATTERY READING READS 10.5V IS THIS A SHORT IN THE CELL? A READING OF 0.55V IS THIS AN OPEN CELL CONDITION? AND A READING OF 13V- 15V OR HIGHER IS THIS A CELL WITHOUT WATER?

WHEN EXPOSED TO AIR AND WATER IS THEN ADDED IT DISINTEGRATES FASTER, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU GIVE THE BATTERY A FAST HIGH CHARGE BECAUSE THE ACID CONCENTRATION WAS OVER 80% IT EATS THE CELL; WHEN DISTILLED WATER IS POURED INTO THE WELL OF THE CELL, IT EXPANDS AND CRACKS THE CELLS, THAT ARE WEAKENED.

NO ELECTRON FLOW, EVEN THOUGH THE VOLT METER TELLS US THE BATTERY VOLTS ARE ABOVE 12.75V, IT CAN START THE CAR YET IT IS DECEPTIVE, IN THAT IT WILL NOT RETAIN A CHARGE AT THE CELLS LEVEL. THE HYDROMETER GRAVITY TEST READS ALL CELL NEED TO BE RECHARGED AND THE VOLT METER PROBE TEST FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL CELL READS LESS THAN 1.5 MILLI VOLTS WHEN IT SHOULD READ 2.0V, MAKING THE ALTERNATOR SUSPECT AGAIN, WHEN ITS REALLY THE BATTERY, THAT IS DRAWING TO MANY ALTERNATOR AMPS, CHARGING A DEFECTIVE BATTERY CELL CONDITION, THAT GOES UNSEEN OFTEN IN OUR APPROACH TO SOLVE AND INVESTIGATE THESE ILLUSIONS IN DIAGNOSTICS.

TO CHECK FOR THIS FLOW OF ELECTRONS, ONE NEEDS A FLUKE TO CHECK THE ELECTRON CURRENT ON THE NEGATIVE CABLE. MANY TECHS, MAKE THIS MISTAKE, OVER AND OVER, AGAIN BY NOT CHECKING THIS ASPECT FIRST AND MANY WHO PRIDE THEMSELVES ON RE-CONDITIONING THEIR BATTERY, OFTEN ARE DISAPPOINTED. BECAUSE THEY DID NOT CHECK THE ELECTRON CURRENT FLOW OR RESISTANCE OR WORKING AMP DRAWS.

IN YOUR WONDER-FILLED VIDEO, WHICH I LOVE VERY MUCH BECAUSE THEY STIMULATE THINKING, OBSERVATIONS AND FORE SIGHT, AND RE-THINKING OR REASSESSMENT, YOU, ONLY DID A NEGATIVE SIDE TEST OF THE ALTERNATOR. DID YOU FORGET TO DO THE POSITIVE SIDE CIRCUIT CHECK, WITH YOUR VOLT METER ON THE ALTERNATOR’S POSITIVE SIDE, BECAUSE A DROP IN VOLTAGE WOULD NOT SHOW UP ON THE POSITIVE SIDE?

TO CHECK FOR INCREASED RESISTANCES OR VOLTAGE DROPS, TO ACCURATELY DIAGNOSE THAT ALTERNATOR, ONLY THE NEGATIVE SIDE OR GROUND, WILL SHOW WHATS ON THE CIRCUIT, SUCH AS THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, A RESISTOR THAT WILL USE POWER FROM THAT CIRCUIT DROPPING DOWN ITS ORIGINAL VOLTAGE POWER CAPACITY, BY SO MUCH RANGE IN FRACTIONS OR PERCENTAGES IN VOLTS?

I STILL REQUIRE MORE STUDY AND READING ON THIS CIRCUIT DIAGNOSTICS, IT TAKES TIME TO ABSORB AND MASTER THESE TECHNIQUES, BECAUSE THERE IS SO MUCH SCIENCE, BEHIND THE CAR’S FUNCTION.

IS THERE A POSITIVE VOLTAGE LOOP ON THE ALTERNATOR CIRCUIT, THAT NEEDS TO BE EXAMINED? IF SO, THEN THE FLUKE IS THE BEST TOOL TO MEASURE THE ELECTRON FLOW BUT ON THE NEGATIVE GROUND SIDE AND NOT ON THE POSITIVE CABLE SIDE?

RESPECTFULLY YOURS,

COLLEGETEXT108

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