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Ugh, I had written a couple paragraphs about the ordeal this morning, but I accidentally hit the back button on my mouse, and everything was lost.
tl;dr
Engine started same bullshit today. Car died multiple times because of the fuel pressure, most times before I even got to 2nd gear. The rest was just after I had released the clutch, even downhill. I called the workshop and told them I would be at least a little late. The representative I talked to said “Don’t worry, I’ll send one of my guys to tow you here!” <———-This is why I keep going back to them, so helpful and kind!
15 minutes later I got my first tow experience!After I got there, mechanic took apart my engine. Well, looked like it, cramped engine compartment, he had to remove one wheel, the battery and a bunch of plastic air ducts and whatnot to get to the connector.
He replaced the connector, and he also put in place an extension, because apparently the stock wiring is *just* long enough, so it could possibly bend too much if you were unlucky. I was unlucky.Got it replaced, and so far it's nice. Don't know if it's the placebo effect or whatever, but the throttle seems more responsive now.
In a week and a half I'll go on a long trip (~1300km), so I'll do some test driving until then, hopefully it's all good until then 😀 Wouldn't want to be stranded in the middle of the country with a cra that won't run above the clutch speed at 1st gear.My initial thought is the wiring. Are all wires intact and ok?
If the insulation has been stripped somewhere, it might cause it to think that it should always stay on.Have you gone through this checklist?
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problemsIf the wiring or ignition switch is faulty, the Subaru tech should have said the behaviour was abnormal, should he not?
Even so, that the wiring of the ignition is faulty on a 2 year old car is extremely unlikely.
I had a 2000 Peugeot 406 where the ignition was wonky, sometimes the wiring for the fans wouldn’t connect properly. A bit of wiggling usually made them initialise. It’s usually a problem with really old ignitions, I heard. Especially if the key chain also has house, work, cabin, 5xwhateverthefuck keys on them, dangling day in and day out for years.English is not my first language, I normally type it as I think it in my head. Sometimes it comes out all jumbled.
When entering the highway, yes. I sit around 30-40km/h in 3rd, then speed up to 80 or so, if the engine isn’t properly warm, I shift to 4th at 3k rpm, and when I hit the speed I want, I release the throttle so the rpm drops a bit, then I shift to 6th. I don’t shift immediately from 4k to sub 2k rpm.
Also, if it’s a lot of traffic at the time, I normally keep it in 4th until I can position myself correctly to enter the lane, then shift.
Usually 2-3 seconds pass between I press the clutch pedal in a low(er) gear to I release the pedal in a high gear. Plenty time for the rpm to stabilise.Also, just to be clear, the engine shutdown happened *before* I even pressed the clutch pedal.
[quote=”chuckp” post=141090] I was told that it was normal for all of the warning lights to be lit if the check engine light comes on, he said that that’s the way modern cars behave![/quote]
I call bullshit. If anything the red symbol with the exclamation mark comes on, if it affects the car’s safety.
But every single one? Yeah, I call bullshit. Then again, I wouldn’t be surprised if the system was designed as such.Even so, when the technician gathers the error codes from the computer, they get a specific error, or at least one that narrows it down to a specific area.
So I’ve completed the install.
Connected the remote cable to the ignition wire on the radio, so it turns on with the key, and turns off a few minutes after the key is taken out (the sleep function I mentioned earlier – I suppose, it didn’t take more than 5 minutes for it to turn off).
There were 2 cables (aside from the big mess of speaker wires) going out of the radio. One grey, and one black. Neither were marked, so I didn’t bother with those. That’s why I put the remote on the ignition wire.I must have connected 1 channel on the loc incorrectly though, as I kept getting rumbling from the subwoofer when the engine was on (nothing when the key was just in accessory). Solution? Unplug the left channel from the amplifier…
Can’t be arsed to rewire the stuff right now. Might do it later, might not. The bass did appear to be as it should, I will have to do some testing, and play my music normally, to spot any differences between my car stereo and home stereo.
Also, I did discover that I had originally reversed the polarity of the channels last I had attempted to install the loc 😀
Accidents happen…
This is why manufacturers should include wire schematics in the instruction manuals!There are 2x 20amp fuses on the subwoofer.
Connected the remote wire to the fuse for the cigarette lighter to test, and it measured a measly 2 milliamp.
I also tried connecting the remote wire to the fuse controlling the radio, but even without the key in the ignition (everything turned off, even the lights inside) the amp stayed on. Is that normal? I sort of remember seeing somewhere in the car’s manual that it stays in some sort of “sleep” mode for 30 minutes or something, could that be why?In either case, according to some site I found via googling (since the manual doesn’t have this information, there are apparently some wires for both the ignition and the antenna going into the radio, so I’ll connect the remote wire to either of those.
Think I’m going to try it tomorrow, need some wire clamps and -cutter that I got at work. Will post what I find!
