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I did the above method with the valve stem, I don’t know if it made much difference, but it did kinda show that one of my injectors was less good than the others, I replaced just the one, and the engine ran better. (it was rich on 3 cylinders and lean on 1, now its just right on all 4)
Soapy water probably isn’t good for the internal components of the injector, I wouldn’t recommend that.
If its still rolling in gear, it’ll bump-start by itself as soon as electricity is restored. and continue on as if nothing happened.
You can try, sounds like a good way to find out if that triggers the issue. 🙂
It’ll be a bit more prone to trapping air bubbles in there, but if you bleed the air out properly it should work okay.
They thought it would help with corrosion, in reality, it doesn’t really matter, and indeed, causes compatibility issues with chassis negative, which at the time, was probably already the most-used.
I just checked, all my stuff has 1/2″ fittings though, so maybe 3/8 indeed isn’t enough? Not sure.
I think there is already an ETCG video about the fittings..
Using fittings and hoses with a small internal diameter (some cheap fittings) certainly reduces the power of an air tool. Especially the curly hoses you get with a lot of compressors are bad, they’re pretty much for inflating tires and such. A straight hose and decent fittings in either size should be fine though. 🙂
I’m kind of on the fence on that last one, if the alternator is also the only thing being driven, why does it need a tensioner pulley (that can wear out and costs money to replace) if it could just as well just had a slotted mount.
May be specific to my car though. 🙂
From personal experience, some cars are really bad for trapping air in the cooling system and then pushing coolant out the cap and overheating, did you properly bleed the air from the cooling system after filling it? In other words: not just putting a funnel in the radiator cap, but opening bleed ports..
Yeah, protective things don’t always do their job, and salt kills cars. The cover is probably as much or more to protect it from impact though, so something like accidentally running over a curb doesn’t rip the lines and potentially cause a fire.
oh, well, I guess the rest of the lines will continue to corrode from the outside at their own pace, eventually the next hole will form somewhere, if thats right at the end of the hose or somewhere else, no real way to know for sure. you could try cleaning the rust off with sandpaper or a wire brush and then painting the lines with something like POR15? That way they’ll pretty much stop rusting.
Well, the protective cover is useful but missing some bits of it is not the end of the world I guess if you don’t go offroading it or something..
It seems they did quite a bodge job at your local shop though..Hm, I don’t think the corrosion will be a significant problem, certainly any surface that comes in contact with fuel is pretty much sealed off from oxygen and won’t rust any further.
They’;ll probably hang on for quite a while unless you live in an area where they salt the roads a lot.. They’re probably not stainless, so they’ll rust eventually, unless you live in a very dry state, in which case the rubber hose will probably die first. Its hard to put a precise time on it, but I’ve seen these clamps turn to rusty dust in a few years out in the weather.
If you have to take them off for anything, don’t expect them to be reusable though, they’re really not well-made, its all too easy to completely strip them out when tightening them to get a good seal, or fall apart when undoing them after.
Longer lengths of fuel hose isn’t a problem, I have about 12-15 ft of the stuff in my car divided into ~3 ft sections at both ends of some 10 ft plastic hard lines, and that is stock.
Just keep an eye out for dry rot (as you should on any rubber component, really), and I guess in your case, probably rusty clamps at some point or another.Hm, not great. Probably won’t fail right away or soon, but depending on how bad the clamps really are they might rust, so keep an eye on it?
Or get some proper clamps form the parts store and replace these. A single set (1 each side) of proper fuel clamps should be plenty, and they’re pretty much $1 each, so its kind of a pity they decided to go with the worst, Home DIY store bargain bin clamps to save a few pennies. Makes you wonder about the fuel hose as well, doesn’t it..