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Because generic screw clamps also exist in really really sh*tty versions that rust at the slightest provocation, and/or cut into the hose and/or don’t clamp very well causing leaks..
Or to put it in pictures:
Factory part
Yes please, this is probably what people mean with a “fuel hose clamp”
Still acceptable (to me at least.) Not the best, but at least its not:
F*ck no!
Absolutely love these on coolant lines, wouldn’t use them for fuel.But thats just my opinion as a non-licenced DIY’er. 🙂
Looks like (generic) braided fuel hose so I wouldn’t be too worried, but as ArmedsouthernEr said, there should be writing on the side of the hose so you can check to make sure.. Usually something along the lines of “brandname, fuel hose, max xxx psi”.
Generic screw clamps shouldn’t be a problem.
One thing I think is worth checking is if the AC clutch actually engages or if it keeps cycling on/off rather quickly.
Quick cycling might indicate a problem with the airconditioning system.
The “fair value” can depend on its actual state, if the car was immaculate and you have a folder full of receipts showing what was done to it, the value should be (a little) higher than a rusted out POS off craigslist. But in reality, they probably won’t care and pay you for ~the cheapest one they can find for sale, or whatever their devaluation-table shows it should be worth.
The same thing happened to me though, spend a years’ wage rebuilding a car from scratch, got $600 back after a SUV folded it in half, their insurance company didn’t understand that I put thousands upon thousands worth of parts on an “old” car. The guy literally said “Its not even a classic.”
Meanwhile, I’m still working on rebuilding it, I spent a multiple of that $600 already and its barely halfway done.Or to put it in the form of a meme:
Needs an additional frame:
“What the other guy’s insurance pays for after he plows his SUV into my ride.Bleed the rear brakes too? if you had the calipers off, you probably have a tiny air bubble somewhere, which would explain the slight sponginess..
The over-generalization I like is that cars are only sold because there is something wrong* with it, or even worse, have had a complete lack of maintenance because it was going to get sold anyway.
*”wrong” can be anything from “I wanted/needed something different” to completely totalled mechanically.. Often its something in between, stuff like timing belt due, clutch slipping, all of the brakes worn out, head gasket blown, or all of the above. That’s thousands in repairs at the stealership for otherwise simple repairs, however, for the same money people buy a replacement car (and drive that until it falls to bits too.)
Project cars are something else though, its because
– Customising makes a car harder to sell, raising the price (even by a little) to reflect at least some of the parts value and work makes it worse, leading to forever-for-sale cars.
– Car meets are “the” place to sell your custom ride to likeminded people?
– Some project cars are shitboxes that the owner wants to get rid of, but quite the opposite can be true too, sometimes its just complete and done, and the owner is just looking for something else, a new challenge/project, but they might not have the space/funds to keep multiple cars. Not everyone is Jay Leno.Find the part number on the side of the injector and put that in google?
For example, on my car, the stock injectors are (pretty much) after market injectors (Weber IWP006). Those are used stock on a bunch of different cars, so finding them used is easy (scrap/ebay) and even clones from china exist. (Not sure if I would trust those..)
I’m assuming the same thing would be true on your car, hence, find the part number.. 🙂
The symptoms, to me, sound like its starving for fuel, rather than something with the spark.
Ran almost completely out of fuel? I’d honestly be looking at the fuel filter being filled with gunk and blocking the flow as a possibility. Same with the fuel pump pickup sock perhaps.
Another typical cause of suddenly running like crap after warming up could be the coolant temperature sensor, it has a pretty substantial influence on the quantity of fuel injected and can cause some very weird things if its borked. Is it repeatable (as in, after cooling down, does it run fine again?)
Yes, stock.
If the injector is a different flowrate, the computer won’t know that and inject either too little or too much. “fixing” that requires a full remap, and thats expensive (if at all possible), so its best to keep the injector the same as stock.
The shop where I usually get my tires mounted is quite a hack shop in my opinion, they most certainly don’t have torque sticks, they just run the bolts down full blast, me jumping my full body weight on a long extension was not an exaggeration, that would’ve left me stranded by the roadside if I had only the stock (short) wheel wrench to change a flat.
Why do I still go there? They’re cheap, they mount and balance 4 tires for the price of 1 at the big-name-chain shop. They do it in 1/3 the time too, but I guess they have to cut corners somewhere. The solution is easy, they just load the wheels into the trunk, I bolt them on at home, and they get to use the lift for some other customer at the same time. (Their small number of lifts is the limiting factor in customer throughput anyway), everybody wins.
I’m guessing the average customer CBF to notice the (very specific) noise a loose wheel makes, and just keeps rolling until the wheel falls off, nor would they bother to re-check the torque after some initial driving distance, even if they’re instructed to do so / told to come back for it. I guess a bit tighter is better in that case to prevent getting sued… but torqing the bolts so hard you can only really get them back off with the impact is too much, and that’s what they did to me.
Anyway, going back to the other side of the yellow line now, since I’m not an actual certified car tech. :side:
I wouldn’t be surprised either if it was the variable intake thingy that caused the limp mode. Being open when its supposed to be closed or vice-versa might really mess up the ECU’s readings and/or cause misfires due to the mixture being way off. But it depends on the car, I guess, or to be more specific, if it has a MAF or a MAP sensor to determine how much air is going in..
You lucked out I think, the timing belt coming loose due to the tensioner not being installed correctly could really ruin your day (and your engine), so even if it was the intake runner valve thingy (it very well might have been), doing a once-over on the timing was very much a good thing. 🙂
Timing belt being a tooth off probably wouldn’t cause a misfire, at least, in my experience. Just a large loss of power.
I think you just triggered limp-home-mode and that took your power away though, but good thing that you once-over’d the timing as well. 🙂
